Analysis of embayed beach planform stability in Danang, Vietnam

This study presents an analysis of the planform stability of the complex embayed beach system of Da Nang Bay, central Vietnam. As a result of the intensification of extreme weather conditions and human activities in this area (e.g. land reclamation, river damming, and coastal structures), coastal safety as well as economic and ecological values...

Topography-induced focusing of random waves

Refraction of narrow-band surface waves in coastal areas can result in wave-focal zones where due to interference, wave statistics vary rapidly and on similar length scales as those of individual waves. However such interference patterns, or wave coherence, are not accounted for in conventional stochastic wave models that are based on the energy...

Impact of access channel geometry on wave penetration in harbours

Access channels (entrance channels) to ports are a relevant part of port facilities, and they have a strong influence on the port operations as well. However, little information is available about their analysis and design regarding the wave interaction with access channels. This study is focused on the interaction of waves with entrance...

Swell propagation in a natural coastal channel in the SWAN model

Compare the 1D spectrum computed in SWAN (Svasek, 2007) with it measured by buoy OS4 in the Oosterschelde Estuary, serious underestimation of wave energy can be found on low-frequency band. Investigation has been performed to find the possible reasons for the missing energy on low frequency part. In this study, diffraction is hypothesized as the...

Schiphol in zee: Golfdiffractie om het eiland

In deze studie is de invloed van golfdiffractie onderzocht op het golfveld achter een eiland in de Noordzee op 10 km uit de kust. Dit onderzoek is uitgevoerd als afstudeeropdracht voor de studie Civiele Techniek aan de Technische Universiteit Delft. Het aanleggen van een eiland voor de Nederlandse kust heeft consequenties voor deze kust. Door de...

Diffraction in a spectral wave model

Waves that approach the coast and encounter obstacles such as small islands, rocks or breakwaters may be reflected backwards and in lateral directions, but the wave crest may also bend around the obstacle. This phenomenon can be described with refraction-diffraction models based on the Boussinesq equation or the mild-slope equation of Berkhoff....

Golfdoordringing in een haven

Het doel van dit onderzoek is de invloed te onderzoeken van refractie en diffractie bij zowel langkammige als kortkammige golven bij een haven(-ingang). Dit onderzoek concentreert zich op de invloed van golfvoortplanting nabij een haveningang op golfbeweging in een erachter gelegen havengebied. Er wordt gekeken naar de invloeden van refractie,...

Verification of a PC model for wave diffraction

BELUGA is a mathematical model which has been developed by Booij, Holthuijsen and Tolman in Delft University of Thechnology, to compute wave penetration into a harbour taking diffraction and reflection into consideration. The aim of the model is to provide an efficient numerical method for calculation of a wave field in a relatively large...

Kustlijnontwikkeling achter offshore golfbrekers

Er zijn verschillende methodes om de achteruitgang van een kustlijn tegen te gaan. Zo kan de kust over een bepaalde lengte vastgelegd worden, zand kan gesuppleerd worden om het geërodeerde materiaal te vervangen, een strandhoofd kan geconstrueerd worden om het langstransport te onderbreken of een "offshore" golfbreker kan aangelegd worden om...

A comparison of mathematical models for wave propagation in harbours

A wave entering a harbor will be diffracted and reflected, depending on the shape and the construction of breakwaters, quays and other objects in the harbor. The incoming wave can increase or decrease in height and a resonance can occur. This affects the manouvering of ships and the movement of moored ships, which influences the loading and...

Gravity waves on water with non-uniform depth and current

A mathematical model for the combined refraction-diffraction of linear periodic gravity waves on water is developed, in which the influence of inhomogeneities of depth and current is taken into account. The model is used to compute partial reflection of waves a gully or an undersea slope, with influence of a current. The model is also applied to...

An inquiry into the limits of applicability of the refraction - diffraction equation

This study has been undertaken in order to find out what is to be understood by " rather gentle " slopes. That is, it is an inquiry into the limits of applicability of the refraction - diffraction equation. In this study, the refraction - diffraction equation, as well as the set of equations from which it has "been derived, are used to predict...

An investigation of two-dimensional wave propagation problems

The methods used in practice for computing wave-propagation are mainly based on two theories. The first one describes the refraction of waves in case of variable depth. The determination of this effect is based on the assumption that a wave locally behaves as a straight-crested wave of constant amplitude. Because of this the celerity is...

Manuscripten van H.J. Schoemaker uit de periode 1946-1971: Deel D: Golven van het wateroppervlak

D1: Golven van het wateroppervlak, grondformules in eerste benadering (1956) D2: Golfvervorming door wind; overzicht van de ontwikkelingen tot 1955 (1955) D3: Second-order effects in progressinve surface waves (1961) D4: Golven in stromend water (1960) D5: Diffractie (1950) D6: Investigations of the reflection of waves (1949)