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De Schipper, M.A. (author)
Alongshore variability in topography (i.e. height differences in bed level along the coast) can exist on both natural and nourished beaches. An important question prior to implementation of a nourishment project is how alongshore variability is going to evolve and, related to this variability, the effect of the project upon swimmer safety. In...
doctoral thesis 2014
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Hope, M.E. (author), Westerink, J.J. (author), Kennedy, A.B. (author), Kerr, P.C. (author), Dietrich, J.C. (author), Dawson, C. (author), Bender, C.J. (author), Smith, J.M. (author), Jensen, R.E. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Holthuijsen, L.H. (author), Luettich, R.A. (author), Powell, M.D. (author), Cardone, V.J. (author), Cox, A.T. (author), Pourtaheri, H. (author), Roberts, H.J. (author), Atkinson, J.H. (author), Tanaka, S. (author), Westerink, H.J. (author), Westerink, L.G. (author)
Hurricane Ike (2008) made landfall near Galveston, Texas, as a moderate intensity storm. Its large wind field in conjunction with the Louisiana-Texas coastline's broad shelf and large scale concave geometry generated waves and surge that impacted over 1000 km of coastline. Ike's complex and varied wave and surge response physics included: the...
journal article 2013
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Verheij, H.J. (author), Hoffmans, G. (author), Hardeman, B. (author), Paulissen, M. (author)
Destructive wave overtopping tests have been performed at more than 20 dike sections in the Netherlands using the Wave Overtopping Simulator to simulate the overtopping waves. The tests show the combined behaviour of turf and substrate up to mean wave overtopping discharges of 75 ?/s per m, meaning wave volumes up to 5,500 ?/m with flow...
conference paper 2012
document
Verhagen, H.J. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Eslami Arab, S. (author)
Modern design formula for coastal structures (like rock stability formula and overtopping formula use wave parameters (H2% and Tm-1,0) which are not readily available from standard boundary condition wave data. For transforming values like Hs and Tp to the parameters used in the new formulas, often-fixed conversion factors are used. However,...
conference paper 2008
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van der Molen, W. (author)
Ports are more and more planned directly facing the ocean. Breakwaters are built to protect the berths against ocean waves. However, protection against long waves, mainly associated with wave groups at the ocean, is much more difficult. Calculations should be performed in the design stage of the port to verify whether the motions of the moored...
doctoral thesis 2006
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D' Angremond, K. (author), Pluim-van der Velden, E.T.J.M. (author)
Lecture notes on genesis of the coastline, climatology, oceanography, coastal morphology, coastal formations, coastalzonde management, tidal inlets and estuaries, pollution and density problems, practical problems and common solutions.
lecture notes 2001
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Metrikine, A.V. (author), Wolfert, A.F.M. (author), Vrouwenvelder, A.C.W.M. (author)
Steady-state vibrations of periodically supported structures under a moving load are analytically investigated. The following three structures are considered: an overhead power line for a train, a long suspended bridge and a railway track. The study is based on the application of so-called 'periodicity condition', which implies that the shape of...
journal article 1999
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de Wit, P.J. (author)
doctoral thesis 1995
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Janssen, C.M. (author)
This literature review is part of the ongoing research on sand transport in oscillatory sheet-flow, as taking place at the coast during storms. Because sheet-flow corresponds to conditions of high shear stress, large amounts of sand are transported. Therefore it is an important part of the total sand transport (sheet-flow and suspended load)....
report 1995
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De Wit, P.J. (author)
A research project was carried out at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as weil as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on two artificial clays, namely China Clay and Westwald Clay. The results of the experiments on China Clay were reported by De Wit (1994). In...
report 1994
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Zhang, C.K. (author)
Data analysis of Delta flume observations and calculationsThe objective of the present study is to analyse the measurement data of profiles and velocity moments, to derive the measured cross-shore sediment transport rates from the profile records and to compare the observed transport rates with the results from several existing prediction models...
report 1994
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De Wit, P.J. (author)
A research project was started at the Delft University of Technology in order to study the interaction between waves as well as a current and a muddy bed. For this purpose several experiments were made on artificial clays. In the present report only flume experiments on China Clay are discussed. In the experiments made special attention was paid...
report 1994
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Van Leeuwen, P.J. (author), Klopman, G. (author)
For the generation of second-order random waves in a flume the control signal for the wave board has to be correct up to second order. An expression for this control signal is derived with the perturbation method of multiple scales. It is much less complex and requires less computation time than the expressions obtained from the full second...
report 1991
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Beji, S. (author)
Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...
conference paper 1991
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Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)
In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...
report 1990
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Klopman, G. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
As an alternative to a more or less standard derivation procedure for design wave heights in relatively shallow water, two improvements of the procedure are suggested which lead to less conservative results. These improvements are based on observations of shallow water effects on both the decay of total wave energy density and on the extreme...
conference paper 1989
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Katsui, H. (author)
The probabilistic design method of a cover layer of pipe line under the horizontal bottom is described. By assuming that the water velocity at the bottom is Rayleigh distributed, probability of bottom shear stress was derived. With a combination of the probability function of bottom shear and a simple sediment transport formula given by Madsen...
report 1982
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Booij, N. (author)
A mathematical model for the combined refraction-diffraction of linear periodic gravity waves on water is developed, in which the influence of inhomogeneities of depth and current is taken into account. The model is used to compute partial reflection of waves a gully or an undersea slope, with influence of a current. The model is also applied to...
doctoral thesis 1981
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Battjes, J.A. (author)
Background material for a special lecture on probabilistic aspects of ocean waves for a seminar in Trondheim. It describes long term statistics and short term statistics. Statistical distributions of waves, directional spectra and frequency spectra. Sea state parameters, response peaks, encounter probability.
report 1977
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Roos, A. (author)
The run-up of waves is an important factor in the design of shore structures. It has been investigated in many studies, both theoretical and experimental. The experimental studies have mostly been confined to the maximum run-up (the greatest height above still water level, reached by the periodic waves on the slope). A simple and reliable...
report 1975
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