Funwave 1.0: Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model - Documentation and User's Manual

This report documents the computer program FUNWAVE based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq model of Wei et al. (1995). The documentation provides a description of the governing equations and the numerical scheme used to solve it. A user's manual is provided and gives instructions on how to use various preprocessors and postprocessors to set up...

Nonlinear Evolution of Shear Instabilities of the Longshore Current

Surface gravity waves breaking in the nearshore region force a longshore surf zone current. This current can be unstable to longshore periodic perturbations. The continuity and momentum conservation equations averaged over the short wave time scales and over depth present a suitable basis for the modeling of these motions. The governing...

Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Bragg Reflection of Infragravity Waves by Sandbars

Using a multiple-scale perturbation method we derive a set of governing equations describing the transformation of long wave and short wave components in a wave group. These equations are derived from Boussinesq equations with the assumption that the length scale of wave group modulation is in the same order of magnitude as that of the bottom...

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the...

Recent results obtained from a numerical wave theory for highly nonlinear shallow water waves

Analytical representation of shallow water wave phenomena is complicated due, in part, to the fact that nonlinear features are important in a predominant number, if not all , problems of shallow water wave motion. It therefore may not even be approximately valid to utilize the Airy wave theory and to assume that various wave components behave...