A consistently-scaled frequency domain nonlinear mild-slope equation model for surface wave propagation

As surface waves propagate from deep water toward shallow coastal areas, their ensuing transformation is due to the influence of bathymetry and several important phenomena, such as refraction, shoaling ,and nonlinear effects. Nonlinear wave models based on the classical Boussinesq equation(Peregrine, 1967)have evidenced good performance in...

Assessment of wave overtopping based on numerical modelling and historic events for an early warning system

Low-lying coastal areas can be very vulnerable to extreme storms inducing overtopping and flood events with severe socioeconomic consequences. Also, the associated risk is expected to increase due to sea level rise and coastal population growth. Under this threat, early warning systems (EWS) are a crucial tool for coastal planning and management...

Wave climate variability and longshore sediment transport on The Doce river delta coast (Brazil)

Deltas are prograding landforms that exist at the interface between rivers and open water systems (marine or lake) and are formed by the deposition of great loads of fluvial sediments. Depending on the influence of the dominant process, deltas can be classified as river-, tide-, or wave-dominated and they will display distinct morphologies ...

Analysis of nonlinear ship-induced 3d wave fields using nonlinear fourier transforms

In the past decade, observations in the German estuaries such as the rivers Elbe and Weser show increasingly serious damage to bank protection structures (groins and revetments). This damage is caused mainly by waves induced by the passing of big container ships in the shallow and narrow maritime waterways. These ship-induced 3D wave fields...

Statistical wave properties in shallow water using cnoidal theory

Various properties of wind-generated waves in coastal regions are significantly different from those in deep water regions. The differences are largely due to the influence of bathymetry, which is more pronounced in shallower water. In general, deep water waves are considered a Gaussian random process with only minor discrepancies between the...

Discrete frequency downshifting in wave spectra on shallow water

Wind waves propagating in the coastal zone, are subject to various changes associated primarily with the impact of nonlinear and dissipative processes. Wave transformation leads to change in the shape of wave spectrum. Sometimes, the major peak frequency shifts to the low-frequency region and so-called “frequency downshifting” are observed. It...

Machine learning improves the modelled wave spectrum in the North Sea

To improve the energy density and directional spectra computed with the SWAN model for the North Sea, a data-driven model is trained to correct the SWAN spectra. After training of the data-driven model on a year of observed and modelled data, the energy density and directional spectrum are corrected for three locations in the North Sea. When...

Coastal Dynamics 2021 Conference: 8th edition of the Coastal Dynamics Conference (Online Conference)

The Coastal Dynamics conference series advances the community's understanding of coastal processes, in terms of science, engineering and management, spanning a variety of scales and environments including sandy, rocky and muddy coasts, inlets and estuaries. The Coastal Dynamics 2021 conference was the nineth conference in the series hosted by...

Analysis of nonlinear ship-induced 3d wave fields using nonlinear fourier transforms

In the past decade, observations in the German estuaries such as the rivers Elbe and Weser show increasingly serious damage to bank protection structures (groins and revetments). This damage is caused mainly by waves induced by the passing of big container ships in the shallow and narrow maritime waterways. These ship-induced 3D wave fields...

Wave current interaction: A study on bed stress formulations in hydrodynamic models

The hydrodynamics of the coastal zone is dominated by two equally important factors: waves and currents. The waves are usually generated by the wind, while the currents may be driven by the tides, the wind, the waves, density variations or river outflows. Their combined effect has many engineering applications. The wave and current fields...