Numerical Modelling of Infragravity Wave Response during Delilah

In this paper the nonlinear numerical model SHORECIRC is applied to simulate the intragravity wave conditions on two days during the 1990 Delilah campaign. In order to simulate the wave conditions an algorithm has been derived which synthesizes a directional of/shore wavefield from data including the bound, directional low-frequency components....

Bragg Reflection of Infragravity Waves by Sandbars

Using a multiple-scale perturbation method we derive a set of governing equations describing the transformation of long wave and short wave components in a wave group. These equations are derived from Boussinesq equations with the assumption that the length scale of wave group modulation is in the same order of magnitude as that of the bottom...

Hydrodynamics of the Surf Zone

Surf zone dynamics is a highly complicated topic in hydrodynamics which deals with the waves and wave generated phenomena in the region between the breaker line on a beach and the shoreline. When waves break on a gently sloping beach, large amounts of energy are released and turned into turbulence. As the waves keep breaking and interacting with...