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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...conference paper 2012
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Suzuki, T. (author), Verwaest, T. (author), Veale, W. (author), Trouw, K. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)In this paper, the effect of beach nourishment on wave overtopping in shallow foreshores is investigated with the nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH. Firstly, the applicability of SWASH to model wave overtopping is tested by comparing results with a physical model setup with different storm wall heights on top of an impermeable sea dike. The...conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...conference paper 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...conference paper 2012
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Bodde, W.P. (author), Pomeroy, A.W.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Lowe, R. (author), van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)Coral reefs are highly valuable ecosystems, which are under an increasing number of environmental pressures. Sedimentation and sediment transport patterns are among key physical drivers of coral reefs, so it is important to improve our understanding of these poorly studied dynamics on reefs. To this purpose, flume experiments were performed on a...conference paper 2014
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Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)Large parts of The Netherlands are protected from flooding by a narrow strip of sandy beaches and dunes. The aim of this thesis is to extend the existing knowledge of dune erosion during storm surges as it occurs along the Dutch coast. The thesis discusses: A large scale dune erosion experiment to obtain better insight in near dune...doctoral thesis 2009
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author)Coastal communities across the globe are often protected by structures, such as seawalls, levees or dikes, which allow only a safe volume of water to pass over or “overtop” them due to wave action during storms. The area seaward of these structures is often characterised by shallow, gently sloping beds referred to as foreshores.<br/>As storm...doctoral thesis 2021
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Nguyên, Hà (author)A sea-dike system is of importance for the protection of the hinterland. However, the effect of very gentle and shallow sloping foreshores (in the order up to 1 in 1000) on wave overtopping processes has not yet been quantified enough and, thus, so far is not well understood. This dissertation seeks an answer to the question of whether the...doctoral thesis 2022
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Pomeroy, A. (author), Lowe, R. (author), Symonds, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Moore, C. (author)A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....journal article 2012
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Naporowski, Remy (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Akrish, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)Coastal safety assessments with wave-resolving storm impact models require a proper offshore description for the incoming infragravity (IG) waves. This boundary condition is generally obtained by assuming a local equilibrium between the directionally-spread incident sea-swell wave forcing and the bound IG waves. The contribution of the free...journal article 2021
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Van Der Meer, Jentsje (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Hirayama, Katsuya (author)The state-of-The-Art formulas for mean wave overtopping (q) assessment typically require wave conditions at the toe of the structure as input. However, for structures built either on land or in very shallow water, obtaining accurate estimates of wave height and period at the structure toe often proves difficult and requires the use of either...journal article 2021
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Wiegel, M.F. (author), de Boer, W.P. (author), van Koningsveld, M. (author), van der Hout, A.J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Seaport operability is key to the economic viability of ports. Metocean conditions (e.g., wind, short waves, and infragravity waves) affect this operability when certain thresholds are exceeded. This paper describes a method for the global mapping of seaport operability risk indicators using open-source metocean data. This global-scale...journal article 2021
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S<sub>sb<...journal article 2022
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Reyns, J.A.H. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author), van Dongeren, Ap (author), Roelvink, D. (author)An unstructured hydrodynamic model is presented that is able to simulate 2D nearshore hydrodynamics on the wave group scale. A non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading, with physics similar to XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is linked to an improved and extended version of the existing unstructured flow solver Delft3D–FM (Kernkamp...journal article 2023
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Hofland, Bas (author), Chen, X. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)During the last decades, the spectral wave period <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> has become accepted as a characteristic wave period when describing the hydraulic attack on coastal structures, especially over shallow foreshores. In this study, we derive an empirical prediction formula for <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> on shallow to extremely shallow...journal article 2017
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Akrish, G. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Smit, P.B. (author)Coastal wave forecasting over large spatial scales is essential for many applications (e.g., coastal safety assessments, coastal management and developments, etc.). This demand explains the necessity for accurate yet effective models. A well-known efficient modelling approach is the quadratic approach (often referred to as frequency-domain...journal article 2024
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De Bakker, A. T M (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)The numerical model SWASH is used to investigate nonlinear energy transfers between waves for a diverse set of beach profiles and wave conditions, with a specific focus on infragravity waves. We use bispectral analysis to study the nonlinear triad interactions, and estimate energy transfers to determine energy flows within the spectra. The...journal article 2016
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de Bakker, J.C. (author), Brinkkemper, J. A. (author), van der Steen, F. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (H<sub>IG</sub>/H...journal article 2016