On the anatomy of nearshore sandbars: A systematic exposition of inter-annual sandbar dynamics

Nearshore sandbars have a lifetime of many years, during which they exhibit cyclic, offshore directed behaviour with strong alongshore coherence. A bar is generated near the shoreline and grows in height and width while migrating offshore, before finally decaying at the seaward limit of the surf zone. It may take 10 to 15 years for a bar to...

On the Intersite Variability in Inter-Annual Nearshore Sandbar Cycles

Inter-annual bar dynamics may vary considerably across sites with very similar environmental settings. In particular, the variability of the bar cycle return period (Tr) may differ by a factor of 3 to 4. To date, data studies are only partially successful in explaining differences in Tr, establishing at best weak correlations to local...

Input reduction for long-term morphodynamic simulations

Input reduction is imperative to long-term (> years) morphodynamic simulations to avoid excessive computation times. Here, we discuss the input-reduction framework for wave-dominated coastal settings introduced by Walstra et al. (2013). The framework comprised 4 steps, viz. (1) the selection of the duration of the original (full) time series of...

Sediment transport on various depth contours of the 'Holland Coast' shoreface

The scientific foundation to maintain the Holland Coast shoreward of the -20m depth contour is limited. It is assumed that profile perturbations shoreward of the -20m depth contour influence the coast within a time scale of 50 to 200 years. Hence, seaward of -20m NAP dredging companies are allowed to dredge sand. The dredged material is amongst...

Evaluation of Canadian arctic artificial islands

In the early seventies the hydrocarbon development of the Beaufort Sea - McKenzie delta region started with the search for oil. To determine if hydrocarbon reserves were to be found a number of artificial exploration-islands were designed and built between 1973 and 1986. Artificial islands were chosen to function as drilling platforms because...

Cross-shore sediment transports on a cut profile

People always want to live near water and all over the world the areas near the sea get more and more built with houses, hotels and infrastructure. For this reason there is a trend to reclaim land by making an artificial island near or against the existing coast. Examples are the airport 'Chek Lap Kok' in Hong Kong and the 'Plan Waterman', a...

T0-Berekening: Status Quo van UNIBEST-TC

Dit rapport gaat in op de ontwikkelingen bij het UNIBETS-TC model. Met dit model wordt het cross-shore en longshore sediment transport berekend. Om inzicht te krijgen in de verbeteringen in het model wordt er in dit rapport een T0-berekening (een berekening op tijdstip T=0) gemaakt. Dit maakt het mogelijk de ontwikkelingen te evalueren door het...