Searched for: subject%3A%22Wave%255C%2Bbreaking%22
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McAllister, M.L. (author), Pizzo, N. (author), Draycott, S. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form unforced steep waves, i.e. nonlinearity or dispersion, are thought to have a strong influence on the onset of wave...
journal article 2023
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Hartgring, Sebastian (author)
During the calibration of SWAN for shallow water lakes in the Netherlands, problems have been encountered. Especially the emergence of an unnatural, secondary peak in the low frequency part of the energy density spectrum poses problems. Therefore, this investigation aims to address the nonlinear shallow water source terms in SWAN that may...
student report 2022
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)
As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...
journal article 2022
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Nielsen, Peter (author), Xu, Beibei (author), Wüthrich, D. (author), Zhang, Shaotong (author)
The propagation of dam-break waves on different rough beds was observed to be quasi-steady in the range < [CDATA[11.3 < x/h dam, where is measured from the dam position. These quasi-steady propagation speeds converge with the steady ideal fluids model of Stoker (Water Waves, 1957, Interscience) when the tailwater depth becomes greater...
journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Guza, R. T. (author)
A fully nonlinear non-dispersive energy balance for surfzone waves is derived based on the nonlinear shallow water equations to study the nearshore dynamics of infragravity (IG) waves. Based on simulations of waves on a relatively moderate and mild beach slope with a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model (SWASH), the new theory shows that spatial...
journal article 2022
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Hengelmolen, Vera (author), Wellens, P.R. (author)
The added resistance is a resistance component that is not yet satisfactorily predicted, although its accurate estimation is crucial-both from an environmental and economic point of view-from the design stage of a ship until its operation. One of the possible sources of overprediction is the occurrence of bow wave breaking. The first aim of...
journal article 2022
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Hu, Z. (author), Lian, S. (author), Zitman, T.J. (author), Wang, H. (author), He, Z. (author), Wei, H. (author), Ren, L. (author), Uijttewaal, W.S.J. (author), Suzuki, T. (author)
Wave height attenuation in vegetation canopies is often all attributed to the drag force exerted by vegetation, whereas other potential dissipation process is often neglected. Previous studies without vegetation have found that opposing currents can induce wave breaking and greatly increase dissipation. It is not clear if similar process may...
journal article 2022
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McAllister, M. L. (author), Draycott, S. (author), Davey, T. (author), Yang, Y. (author), Adcock, T. A.A. (author), Liao, S. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Axisymmetric standing waves occur across a wide range of free surface flows. When these waves reach a critical height (steepness), wave breaking and jet formation occur. For travelling surface gravity waves, wave breaking is generally considered to limit wave height and reversible wave motion. In the ocean, the behaviour of directionally...
journal article 2022
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Kanehira, Taiga (author), McAllister, Mark L. (author), Draycott, Samuel (author), Nakashima, Takuji (author), Ingram, David M. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author), Mutsuda, Hidemi (author)
Ocean wave breaking is a difficult-to-model oceanographic process, which has implications for extreme wave statistics, the dissipation of wave energy, and air–sea interaction. Numerical methods capable of reliably simulating real-world directionally spread breaking waves are useful for investigating the physics of wave breaking and for the...
journal article 2022
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Hengelmolen, Vera (author)
Stimulated by the energy efficiency indices introduced by the International Maritime Organization, the increased attention for the environment as well as economical pressures emphasize the relevance of accurate resistance estimation for ships. This leads to a particular interest for added resistance in waves, a resistance component that is...
master thesis 2021
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Wüthrich, D. (author), Shi, Rui (author), Chanson, Hubert (author)
Highly turbulent free-surface flows are characterised by complex and rapidly varying air-water surface features, leading to enhanced surface roughness, breakup and disintegration processes. Such a strong free-surface turbulence has an impact on a number of environmental flows, and a deeper understanding of its physical nature is fundamental....
journal article 2021
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Kanehira, T. (author), McAllister, M. L. (author), Draycott, S. (author), Nakashima, T. (author), Taniguchi, N. (author), Ingram, D. M. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author), Mutsuda, H. (author)
Wave breaking in the ocean affects the height of extreme waves, energy dissipation, and interaction between the atmosphere and upper ocean. Numerical modelling is a critical step in understanding the physics of wave breaking and offers insight that is hard to gain from field data or experiments. High-fidelity numerical modelling of three...
journal article 2021
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Draycott, S. (author), Li, Y. (author), Stansby, P.K. (author), Adcock, T.A.A. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have been shown to induce the release of bound waves into free waves, which results in spatially inhomogeneous wave fields atop ADTs. Herein, we examine the role of free-wave release in the generation and spatial distribution of higher-harmonic wave components and in the onset of wave breaking for very steep...
journal article 2021
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Patil, Akshay (author)
Rapid climate change and the corresponding estimated sea level rise can affect the performance of the coastal defense structures such as breakwaters, seawalls, and dikes. In order to improve these coastal defenses, a detailed understanding of the processes which contribute to wave run-up and overtopping over the coastal defenses needs to be...
master thesis 2019
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Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Rijnsdorp, Dirk P. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)
In this study we assess the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smooth Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) method to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone, and present how the approach can be used to predict a broad spectrum of hydrodynamic...
conference paper 2019
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Choi, B. (author)
The publication of the Energy Efficiency Design Index (EEDI) by the International Maritime Organization (IMO) has recently stimulated the accurate assessment of actual sea performance of ships, which is evaluated as added resistance in waves. However, a satisfactory consensus on the evaluation method has not yet been reached owing to uncertainty...
doctoral thesis 2018
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to...
journal article 2017
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Salmon, J.E. (author)
Stochastic wave models play a central role in our present-day wave modelling capabilities. They are frequently used to compute wave statistics, to generate boundary conditions and to include wave effects in coupled model systems. Historically, such models were developed to predict the wave field evolution in deep water where the conditions of...
doctoral thesis 2016
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Mil-Homens, J. (author)
Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) is one of the main drivers of beach morphology. It works at temporal scales ranging from hours to centuries and at spatial scales ranging from tens of meters to hundreds of kilometres. Episodic, large LST rates can result in important physical impacts such as inlet closure, rapid build-up of ebb/flood shoals,...
doctoral thesis 2016
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Choi, BongJun (author), Huijsmans, R.H.M. (author)
conference paper 2016
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