Searched for: subject%3A%22Wave%255C+transformation%22
(1 - 17 of 17)
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Zarifsanayei, Amin Reza (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), Etemad-Shahidi, Amir (author), Cartwright, Nick (author), Strauss, Darrell (author)
Although there have been many efforts in the literature to hindcast the patterns of longshore sediment transport (LST), they mainly disregarded uncertainty issues. Forcing datasets, wave transformation methods, and LST models are among the main sources of uncertainty in LST estimations. The combination of the aforementioned sources of...
journal article 2022
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Van Der Meer, Jentsje (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Hirayama, Katsuya (author)
The state-of-The-Art formulas for mean wave overtopping (q) assessment typically require wave conditions at the toe of the structure as input. However, for structures built either on land or in very shallow water, obtaining accurate estimates of wave height and period at the structure toe often proves difficult and requires the use of either...
journal article 2021
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Jonker, R.G. (author)
In this research OpenFOAM is used to model and determine the complex hydrodynamic behaviour of a Homogeneous low-crested structure (HLCS) consisting of cubipod artificial concrete elements. The validated model is used to gain insight in the design sensitivities of a two dimensional cross sectional layout to reduce sea wall overtopping. HLCS and...
master thesis 2020
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Sous, Damien (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Rey, Vincent (author), Touboul, Julien (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Devenon, Jean Luc (author), Chevalier, Cristele (author), Aucan, Jerôme (author)
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined...
journal article 2019
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Rijnsdorp, D. P. (author), Yao, Y. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)
In this study we investigated the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone. The weakly-compressible SPH code DualSPHysics was applied to simulate wave breaking over...
journal article 2019
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Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Rijnsdorp, Dirk P. (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author)
In this study we assess the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smooth Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) method to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone, and present how the approach can be used to predict a broad spectrum of hydrodynamic...
conference paper 2019
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Rietberg, Dolf (author)
Shore-normal breakwaters are constructed in coastal zones both for beach protection (erosion reduction) and port development (wave sheltering). These breakwaters have an effect on the waves, the (wave-driven) currents and hence, the sediment transport along the coast. The waves and tide force an equilibrium sediment transport along the coast in...
master thesis 2017
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Kar, Attman (author)
Across the world, the presence of humans in coastal regions is always increasing. Hydraulic forcing from extreme events is a large risk around the global coastlines, the risk being complicated by the increased human presence along the coasts.<br/>The knowledge that vegetation can be used as a coastal protection measure is not something new. The...
master thesis 2017
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Pomeroy, A. (author), Lowe, R. (author), Symonds, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Moore, C. (author)
A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....
journal article 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Bonet, R.P. (author)
A heterogeneous physical domain decomposition approach is followed to simulate the unsteady wave transformation goes to the shoreline. The motivation for this work stems from the difficulties in modelling the non-linear phenomena that appear at the wave transformation goes to the coast by elliptic models kind extended Berkhoff equations. An...
conference paper 2006
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Beyer, D. (author)
The present wave transformation models for random waves make use of an explicit formulation of the energy dissipation. A time-averaged model has been studied in which the dissipation rate per breaking wave is estimated from that in a bore of corresponding height. The probability of occurrence of breaking is derived from a wave height...
master thesis 1994
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Hamm, L. (author)
This note reports simulations carried out to simulate wave transformation along the flume following the initial beach profile and the wave conditions given in Roelvink(1993). Parametric spectral and wave-by-wave approaches are compared. An estimation of the distribution of the skewness of the bottom orbital velocity along the flume is also given.
report 1993
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Won, Y.S. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)
A spectral evolution model is implemented of the extended Boussinesq equation which can be used for varying bathymetry even in deep water region. In this model, a contribution of the triad nonlinear interaction can be segregated from that of the bottom shoaling effect. For a simple onedimensional case, an attempt to express the triad interaction...
report 1993
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Dalrymple, R.A. (author)
The propagation of waves from offshore to onshore is a difficult problem due to the mathematical complexities of the governing equations and the degree of uncertainty of the bathymetry over which the waves must travel. In this lecture, the various methods of transforming offshore wave trains to shallow water are discussed. First, single wave...
report 1992
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Beji, S. (author)
Nonlinear aspects of breaking and non-breaking waves propagating over a submerged trapezoidal bar have been investigated by laboratory experiments, with special emphasis on the generation of high-frequency energy. Data collected from the measurements are used for computing spectral and bispectral estimates in order to assess the contribution of...
conference paper 1991
Searched for: subject%3A%22Wave%255C+transformation%22
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