Long-term modelling with XBeach: combining stationary and surfbeat mode in an integrated approach

XBeach is a process-based morphological model that has been used for modelling short term behaviour of beaches and dunes. In the past years interest has been shown by researchers and engineers to use XBeach for longer simulation periods (multiple years). XBeach has multiple modules: stationary mode is often used during calm conditions and...

Infra-gravity wave transformation across macro-tidal rocky shore platforms.

This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...