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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...journal article 2018
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Peters, Jochem (author)The coastal waters of Nigeria are a difficult environment to build structures to control the local morphology and hydrodynamic conditions to ones desire. This difficulty is a consequence of the persistent high-energy swell wave climate and Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) in the order of one million cubic metres per<br/>year. Besides these...master thesis 2018
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de Ridder, Menno (author)One sixth of the world's coastline consist of coral reefs and provide natural flood defence for the people who live in the coastal region behind the reef. However, a rising sea level, changing wave conditions and degradation of corals threaten the coastal safety of these reefs.Numerical models can be applied to study the reef-hydrodynamics and...master thesis 2018
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Klaver, Sebastiaan (author)Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...master thesis 2018
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Wendt, Emiel (author)The static stability of stones on mild slopes under wave attack is investigated in this research. The first part of the research is focused on reproducing the physical scale model tests regarding profile change of Kramer (2016) numerically with the model XBeach-G. The erosion profiles modelled with the bed-load transport formulas of Nielsen ...master thesis 2017
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de Beer, Anne (author)Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...master thesis 2017
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Jongedijk, Cleo (author)A very common observation is the episodic erosion of beaches during storms and the slow recovery (accretion) afterwards (Yates et al. 2009). Morphodynamic models parameterize physical processes in order to relate the fluid motions (hydrodynamics) to the bed level changes (morphodynamics) over a wide range of spatial and temporal scales. Despite...master thesis 2017
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Muller, Jos (author)The City of Galveston is protected from extreme storm impact by a 17-km concrete seawall facing the Gulf of Mexico. Recent investigations have shown that the seawall may not be sufficient any more to protect against a 1 in 100 year design storm. Since raising the seawall disconnects the city from the beach and may be very costly, a hybrid...student report 2017
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Caichac Avilés, Daniel (author)Numerical process-based morphodynamic models are widespread in coastal engineering practice and have become the new standard when it comes to assessing the impact of natural or man-made structures on coastal environments. The most common practice among engineers is to focus on a single spatial and time scale, which means either neglecting...master thesis 2017
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Von Gronau, Clemens (author)With the implementation of new legal aspects for dune safety assessment in 2017, the current method, Duros+, is no longer feasible to represent the desired processes. This 1D deterministic, volume-balance model cannot simulate processes like inundation and overwash, which are crucial to fulfil the new requirements for dune safety assessment....master thesis 2017
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Bart, L.J.C. (author)XBeach is a process-based morphological model that has been used for modelling short term behaviour of beaches and dunes. In the past years interest has been shown by researchers and engineers to use XBeach for longer simulation periods (multiple years). XBeach has multiple modules: stationary mode is often used during calm conditions and...master thesis 2017
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Hewageegana, Hithaishi (author)Coastal defense mechanisms are an integral part in the safety of infrastructure and communities residing on coastlines around the globe. In long temporal and spatial scales, traditional “hard structures” for coastal defense can become infeasible. Incorporation of soft engineering methods for coastal defense can then be a viable solution....master thesis 2017
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Van Bemmelen, C.W.T. (author)The applicability of the open source model XBeach was tested for pocket beaches in this paper. First, schematized model setups have been used to assess the performance of XBeach qualitatively. It was found that adjustments of the initial bed were required to obtain the expected hydrodynamic conditions. The default sediment advection calibration...student report 2017
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Dekker, M. (author), Leijnse, T. (author), Simonse, J. (author), Van Westen, B. (author)This main objective of this report is to find the cause of the erosion problem and to design a solution for the problematic situation in front of the Iberostar Varadero Hotel, Cuba. This hotel is situated in the eastern part of the Peninsula of Hicacos. For almost 40 years erosion problems are present at this location and need direct attention....student report 2017
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Matias, Ana (author), Carrasco, Ana Rita (author), Loureiro, Carlos (author), Andriolo, Umberto (author), Masselink, Gerd (author), Guerreiro, Martha (author), Pacheco, A (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Ferreira, Óscar (author), Plomaritis, Theocharis A. (author)Overwash hydrodynamics datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being hard to obtain due to fieldwork experimental difficulties. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash<br/>hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was performed on Barreta...conference paper 2017
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Janssen, M.P.J. (author)Although mangrove forests have proven to contribute to wave dissipation significantly, these ecosystem are threatened mainly by the expanding aquaculture. International or nationwide applied greenbelt policies are often used for the preservation of the mangroves and hence the flood hazard reduction, without taking local (hydrodynamic) conditions...master thesis 2016
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Postma, M.G. (author)This study describes the stability of rock on a mild slope (e.g. milder than 1:6) under wave loading. This is done because an increasing number of situations occur where mild foreshores are protected from the wave and currents. The empirical stability formula, designed by VAN DER MEER [1988], is not valid for these kind of slopes. Nonetheless,...master thesis 2016
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Pearson, S.G. (author)Low-lying tropical islands are highly vulnerable to the effects of sea-level rise and climate change. Most pressing is the threat posed to their fresh water supplies by wave-induced flooding. This thesis attempts to generalize previous site-specific studies of flooding on coral atolls and apply it in a framework that can be used for early...master thesis 2016
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Jager, T. (author)This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...master thesis 2016
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Kroon, M.E.N. (author)Natural reefs are important habitats for a wide range of species. Furthermore, they attenuate waves and thereby protect the leeside, functioning as coastal protection. Many reefs are however eroding or degraded, leading to a loss of these ecosystem services. Artificial reefs can reverse this negative trend. The artificial reefs in this context...master thesis 2016