Searched for: subject%3A%22XBeach%22
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Kolijn, D.J. (author)
The following research focuses on artificial underwater structures (a.k.a. artificial reefs) in a coral reef environment to mitigate the natural and anthropogenic pressures which reef systems are increasingly facing worldwide. The research question is stated as: “Establishing a method to determine if a multipurpose artificial underwater...
master thesis 2014
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de Beer, Anne (author)
Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...
master thesis 2017
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Pearson, S.G. (author)
Low-lying tropical islands are highly vulnerable to the effects of sea-level rise and climate change. Most pressing is the threat posed to their fresh water supplies by wave-induced flooding. This thesis attempts to generalize previous site-specific studies of flooding on coral atolls and apply it in a framework that can be used for early...
master thesis 2016
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Jager, T. (author)
This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...
master thesis 2016
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Anker, J.C. (author)
On the south-west coast of Namibia, diamonds were trapped during the Quaternary on bedrock platforms and in bedrock gullies. These were formed by differential erosion due to wave action. The diamonds originated from Kimberlite diamond pipes within the catchment area of the Orange River in South-Africa and Botswana. This river eroded the diamonds...
master thesis 2015
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Heineke, Esther (author)
Coastal protection is required to keep coastal areas protected during storm conditions. Coastal dunes are a natural defense against flooding and erosion from the sea against storms. Many insights have been obtained regarding the positive effects of coastal dune vegetation on dune formation and growth in the past. Several recent studies have...
master thesis 2022
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Breedveld, Rosanne (author)
The Building with Nature approach has been gaining ground in hydraulic engineering, increasing the importance of understanding the cross-shore morphodynamic processes. The intertidal zone, where marine and aeolian processes come together, is an important link in the transport of sediment from the sea towards the dunes. The grain size...
master thesis 2022
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Poelhekke, L. (author)
Recent and historic events have demonstrated the European vulnerability to coastal floods. Larger and more extreme events in Asia and the Americas have shown the devastating effects that these low-frequency high-impact floods can have. This thesis contributes to the development of an Early Warning System (EWS) for marine coastal hazards. The...
master thesis 2015
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Roelvink, Floortje (author)
Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...
master thesis 2019
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Enschedé, Maurits (author)
This study examines a method for a stochastic beach width prediction with a process-based morphodynamic model. This is carried out by a case study at the Hondsbossche Dunes, after a beach nourishment in March 2018. Stochastic forcing conditions are generated for the location of the Hondsbossche Dunes. These stochastic forcing conditions consist...
master thesis 2019
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Quataert, E. (author)
The aim of this research was to take the first step in understanding the wave runup process on an atoll reef using the XBeach model. Field data collected from 3 November 2013 to 13 April 2014 at Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands was used. The dataset included data on bathymetry, waves, water levels and wave-induced runup....
master thesis 2015
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Morris, J.C. (author)
Our understanding of nearshore coastal zone processes can be improved significantly with the availability of high spatiotemporal resolution bathymetry data. This high resolution data can be used for validation and calibration of numerical models, for providing forecasts of hydrodynamic conditions and morphological development, and for monitoring...
master thesis 2013
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De Vet, P.L.M. (author)
Currently, morphodynamic models as XBeach show substantial overestimations of the erosion rates during breaching and overwash events at barrier islands. The presently used limitations on the Shields parameter and the sediment concentration do hinder erosion, but have undesirable side effects, e.g. the breaching process is suppressed. By...
master thesis 2014
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Kok, Emma (author)
In the Waal bed degradation occurs, which is mainly induced by a large number of river regulations measures done in the past. Rijkswaterstaat develops possible measures and new techniques to stop riverbed erosion and/or mitigate the negative effects. One of the possible new techniques to reduce riverbed erosion locally is groyne field...
master thesis 2020
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Den Bieman, J.P. (author)
Barrier islands are important features in the coastal zone, among others because they shelter the mainland from waves and storm surge. Thus, the degradation of barrier islands can pose a threat to coastal safety. Hence, there is a societal demand for understanding and predicting barrier island evolution. High energy events, such as storms and...
master thesis 2012
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Daouk, H. (author)
This report presents the methodology and findings of a study on the impacts of free long waves on dune erosion predictions in XBeach. In this paper a distinction is made between two types of infragravity waves: bound infragravity waves and free infragravity waves. Bound infragravity waves are generated by short-wave group forcings and are bound...
master thesis 2020
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Nederhoff, C.M. (author)
Many of the most densely populated areas are located near the coast. Climate change and population growth put more and more pressure on these coastal areas. As free space is becoming sparse, coastal disaster risk reduction plans need to be spatially efficient. In this thesis the sandy coast with hard structures, such as buildings or dune...
master thesis 2014
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Bart, L.J.C. (author)
XBeach is a process-based morphological model that has been used for modelling short term behaviour of beaches and dunes. In the past years interest has been shown by researchers and engineers to use XBeach for longer simulation periods (multiple years). XBeach has multiple modules: stationary mode is often used during calm conditions and...
master thesis 2017
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Peters, Jochem (author)
The coastal waters of Nigeria are a difficult environment to build structures to control the local morphology and hydrodynamic conditions to ones desire. This difficulty is a consequence of the persistent high-energy swell wave climate and Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) in the order of one million cubic metres per<br/>year. Besides these...
master thesis 2018
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Veldt, Timo (author)
Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...
master thesis 2019
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