Hydraulic stability of cube-armored mound breakwaters in depth-limited breaking wave conditions

Armor erosion due to wave attack has been studied intensively since it is considered the main failure mode of mound breakwaters. Cube-armored mound breakwaters in depth-limited breaking wave conditions are common in practice but have received limited attention in the literature. In this study, 2D physical tests were performed on non...

Influence of the Spatial Pressure Distribution of Breaking Wave Loading on the Dynamic Response of Wolf Rock Lighthouse

The survivability analysis of offshore rock lighthouses requires several assumptions of the pressure distribution due to the breaking wave loading (Raby et al. (2019), Antonini et al. (2019). Due to the peculiar bathymetries and topographies of rock pinnacles, there is no dedicated formula to properly quantify the loads induced by the breaking...

A Bayesian inverse dynamic approach for impulsive wave loading reconstruction: Theory, laboratory and field application

The measurement of wave forces acting on marine structures is a complicated task, both during physical experiments and, even more so, in the field. Force transducers adopted in laboratory experiments require a minimum level of structural movement, thus violating the main assumption of fully rigid structure and introducing a dynamic response...

Short wave breaking effects on low frequency waves

The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...

Performance of a spectral wind-wave model in shallow water

Shear stresses and mean flow in shoaling and breaking waves

We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and...

Quasi-3D Nearshore Current Modelling: Wave-Induced Secondary Current

Energy dissipation in breaking solitary and periodic waves

It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say) the wave height after breaking does not decay in proportion to the mean depth. The curve H/Hb vs h/hb is concave upwards (for plane bottom). The concavity increases with decreasing S and with increasing Ho/Lo (Nakamura et al., 1966). The often...

Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves

Calibration and Verification of a Dissipation Model for Random Breaking Waves

Velocity and Pressure Field in Spilling Breakers