Energy dissipation in breaking solitary and periodic waves

It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say) the wave height after breaking does not decay in proportion to the mean depth. The curve H/Hb vs h/hb is concave upwards (for plane bottom). The concavity increases with decreasing S and with increasing Ho/Lo (Nakamura et al., 1966). The often...

Calibration and verification of a dissipation model for random breaking waves

Calibration and Verification of a Dissipation Model for Random Breaking Waves