Searched for: subject:"breaking%5C%2Bwaves"
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Looking at a surfzone, one immediately notices the short breaking waves. Looking more carefully, will show in most cases that the wave height of the breaking waves is not constant, but varies in time. Often one may observe that groups of relatively high waves are followed by groups of lower waves. This short wave groupiness may cause low...
master thesis 1992