Searched for: subject:"breaking%5C+waves"
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van Maris, Bob (author)
During the design process of the new sea lock in IJmuiden the design wave conditions were described by a bimodal wave spectrum. With a spectral calculation method it was observed that a small low frequency component leaded to a large influence in the force spectrum. This observation served as the starting point for this thesis, where different...
master thesis 2018
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Christy Ushanth, N. (author)
Generally the foundations of offshore wind turbines are steel truss structures which are exposed to wave slamming forces due to breaking waves, typically plunging breaking waves in shallow water. Calculations show that the forces from the plunging breaking waves are governing the design responses of the structure and the foundations. However,...
master thesis 2013
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Daly, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author)
The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...
conference paper 2010
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Jacobs, R.P.M. (author)
The nearshore zone is an active zone that can be quite inhospitable to humans due to violent wave breaking and strong rip currents. Rip currents are shore normal jet-like currents that typically extend from near the shoreline out past the line of breaking waves. Observations have concluded that a rip current system generally consists of 4 parts....
master thesis 2010
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Mous, B.C. (author)
Against the background of enhanced hydraulic loads due to climate change there will be a need for improvement of the flood defence system in the Netherlands in the future. These days there is a growing interest in grass as a dike cover because it is a cheap and a sustainable dike protection. Yet at the moment there is a hiatus in the knowledge...
master thesis 2010
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Smith, G.M. (author)
report 1999
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Kant, G. (author)
report 1999
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Ottenheim, E.S.A.P. (author)
Much research has been done on the stability of stones in breaking waves, but up to now, most of these studies were based on experiments with slopes varying from 1: 1 to 1:7. The stability of stones on mild slopes, slopes not steeper than 1: 10, has not yet been researched very extensively. Applications of mild slopes in practice are for example...
master thesis 1997
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Van Vledder, G.P. (author), De Ronde, J.G. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
conference paper 1995
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Walstra, D.J. (author)
In this report we describe the development and calibration of a model which predicts the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities induced by waves, the so-called undertow. Location of interest is the nearshore region where the flow is induced by both breaking and non-breaking waves. The model consists out of three modules. The first...
master thesis 1994
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Vledder, G.P. van (author)
report 1994
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Stive, M.J.F. (author), De Vriend, H.J. (author)
We investigate the vertical, wave averaged distributions of shear stresses and Eulerian flow in normally incident, shoaling and breaking waves. It is found that shear stresses are solely due to wave amplitude variations, which can be caused by shoaling, boundary layer dissipation and/or breaking wave dissipation. The resulting shear stress and...
conference paper 1994
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Looking at a surfzone, one immediately notices the short breaking waves. Looking more carefully, will show in most cases that the wave height of the breaking waves is not constant, but varies in time. Often one may observe that groups of relatively high waves are followed by groups of lower waves. This short wave groupiness may cause low...
master thesis 1992
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Okayasu, A. (author)
The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...
report 1989
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Klein Breteler, M. (author)
report 1989
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Ohnishi, M.P. (author)
Sediment transport causes morphological changes of coastal areas, and it is one of the most important objects in coastal engineering study. Recently, various experiments have been performed to investigate the sediment transport mechanism under a combination of waves and currents and to find the underlying relationships among various parameters...
master thesis 1989
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Jordan, Donald J. (author), Hervey, Carol L. (author)
report 1988
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Stive, M.J.F. (author), De Vriend, H.J. (author)
conference paper 1987
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Battjes, J.A. (author)
It is well known (see Divoky et al., 1970, for a review) that on gentle slopes (slope S < 1:30, say) the wave height after breaking does not decay in proportion to the mean depth. The curve H/Hb vs h/hb is concave upwards (for plane bottom). The concavity increases with decreasing S and with increasing Ho/Lo (Nakamura et al., 1966). The often...
report 1986
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Battjes, J.A. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
journal article 1985
Searched for: subject:"breaking%5C+waves"
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