Searched for: subject%3A%22directional%255C%2Bspreading%22
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document
Michels, Dirk-Jan (author)
On the east coast of Romania, at Eforie, coastal erosion manifests. To strengthen the coastal area a large coastal protection project was setup involving beach nourishment combined with the construction of breakwaters. The breakwaters are designed with the well-known modified Van der Meer formulas. To ensure confidence in the breakwaters...
master thesis 2022
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Kanehira, Taiga (author), McAllister, Mark L. (author), Draycott, Samuel (author), Nakashima, Takuji (author), Ingram, David M. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author), Mutsuda, Hidemi (author)
Ocean wave breaking is a difficult-to-model oceanographic process, which has implications for extreme wave statistics, the dissipation of wave energy, and air–sea interaction. Numerical methods capable of reliably simulating real-world directionally spread breaking waves are useful for investigating the physics of wave breaking and for the...
journal article 2022
document
Kanehira, T. (author), McAllister, M. L. (author), Draycott, S. (author), Nakashima, T. (author), Taniguchi, N. (author), Ingram, D. M. (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author), Mutsuda, H. (author)
Wave breaking in the ocean affects the height of extreme waves, energy dissipation, and interaction between the atmosphere and upper ocean. Numerical modelling is a critical step in understanding the physics of wave breaking and offers insight that is hard to gain from field data or experiments. High-fidelity numerical modelling of three...
journal article 2021
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Veldt, Timo (author)
Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...
master thesis 2019
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Suzuki, T. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Verwaest, T. (author), Trouw, K. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
In this paper, a numerical wave-flow model SWASH, based on non-linear shallow water equation with non- hydrostatic pressure, is applied to the estimation of wave overtopping over a dike in shallow foreshores. First sensitivity analysis is conducted to see the influence of wave generation, grid size, time window and bottom friction by one...
conference paper 2014
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Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)
Characteristics of the individual wave height distribution in shallow water have been investigated using measured wave data and results of numerical simulations using the non-hydrostatic SWASH model. It is shown that the SWASH model is capable of reproducing the temporal and spatial variation of surface elevation in a wave flume and the...
conference paper 2013
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Gao, Q. (author), Radder, A.C. (author), Booij, N. (author)
The numerical wave model CREON is developed to predict the propagation and transformation of wave properties in shallow water. In Gao et al. (1993), which is referred to as Part I in the following, a description is given of the theoretical and numerical treatment of the model. In the present report, we present various computational results. The...
report 1994
document
Reniers, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)
In the following we consider the forcing of long waves by normally or obliquely incident grouped short waves, also known as surf beat. Two mechanisms responsible for the generation of long waves are considered: the release of the bound long waves associated with changes in the spatial variation of the incident short wave energy [Longuet-Higgins...
report 1990
Searched for: subject%3A%22directional%255C%2Bspreading%22
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