Computing breakwater stability using SWASH: The effects of model choices, shallow foreshore and oblique waves on the stability of a rubble mound breakwater

On the east coast of Romania, at Eforie, coastal erosion manifests. To strengthen the coastal area a large coastal protection project was setup involving beach nourishment combined with the construction of breakwaters. The breakwaters are designed with the well-known modified Van der Meer formulas. To ensure confidence in the breakwaters...

Infragravity wave resonance over coral reef lined coasts

Coral reefs are vital to the prosperity of the world and the local communities by providing food and coastal protection. Coral reefs are home to 25% of marine life and have therefore gained the nickname ’rainforest of the sea’. However, the reefs are being damaged by climate change and human intervention, resulting in an alarming rate of...

The effect of a shallow vegetated foreshore on infragravity waves: A study with SWASH

A specific type of wave is identified as an infragravity wave (IG wave). These waves with very long wave periods, even up to minutes, are possibly dangerous for flood events, increased storm surge and/or failure of coastal defences. Current guidelines for dike safety are often determined for gravity wave dominated systems, so identifying IG...

Numerical modelling of infragravity waves in coastal regions

Infragravity waves are a common feature in the nearshore wave field and have a significant impact on numerous coastal processes. It is therefore important to accurately predict infragravity wave conditions at a given location. However, analytical relations do not exist with which to make such predictions and one has to rely on numerical models....