Searched for: subject:"infragravity%5C+waves"
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Niazi, Muhammad Hassan Khan (author)
The increasing frequency and intensity of extreme events due to global warming and climate change is increasing flood risk. To act, rather than react, nature-based solutions (NBS) involving vegetation and wetlands are being explored on top of conventional solutions like dikes. WHY? There was a dire need for global study quantifying the potential...
master thesis 2019
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Lashley, C.H. (author), Bertin, Xavier (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Arnaud, Gaël (author)
Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...
journal article 2019
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Sous, Damien (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Rey, Vincent (author), Touboul, Julien (author), Bouchette, Frédéric (author), Devenon, Jean Luc (author), Chevalier, Cristele (author), Aucan, Jerôme (author)
This paper reports a combined observational and numerical study of wave transformation over barrier reefs. The field instrumentation, which consists in a cross-shore network of pressure sensors and one high resolution velocity profiler, has been deployed for more than two months over the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The combined...
journal article 2019
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Feys, Charles (author)
A specific type of wave is identified as an infragravity wave (IG wave). These waves with very long wave periods, even up to minutes, are possibly dangerous for flood events, increased storm surge and/or failure of coastal defences. Current guidelines for dike safety are often determined for gravity wave dominated systems, so identifying IG...
master thesis 2018
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Dekkers, Jochem (author)
A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the...
master thesis 2018
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Lashley, C.H. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)
The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...
journal article 2018
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de Beer, Anne (author)
Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...
master thesis 2017
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Hofland, B. (author), Chen, X. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)
During the last decades, the spectral wave period <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> has become accepted as a characteristic wave period when describing the hydraulic attack on coastal structures, especially over shallow foreshores. In this study, we derive an empirical prediction formula for <i>T</i><sub>m-1,0</sub> on shallow to extremely shallow...
journal article 2017
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de Bakker, J.C. (author), Brinkkemper, J. A. (author), van der Steen, F. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)
Two field data sets of near-bed velocity, pressure, and sediment concentration are analyzed to study the influence of infragravity waves on sand suspension and cross-shore transport. On the moderately sloping Sand Motor beach (≈1:35), the local ratio of infragravity wave height to sea-swell wave height is relatively small (H<sub>IG</sub>/H...
journal article 2016
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De Bakker, A. T M (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Ruessink, B. G. (author)
The numerical model SWASH is used to investigate nonlinear energy transfers between waves for a diverse set of beach profiles and wave conditions, with a specific focus on infragravity waves. We use bispectral analysis to study the nonlinear triad interactions, and estimate energy transfers to determine energy flows within the spectra. The...
journal article 2016
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Oosterlo, P. (author)
In this thesis, a method was developed, with which the infragravity waves and morphological changes of a sandy foreshore are included in the calculation of the probability of dike failure due to wave overtopping. Constructing a natural foreshore in front of the dike can be an attractive and innovative method to decrease the failure probability....
master thesis 2015
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Quataert, E. (author)
The aim of this research was to take the first step in understanding the wave runup process on an atoll reef using the XBeach model. Field data collected from 3 November 2013 to 13 April 2014 at Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of the Marshall Islands was used. The dataset included data on bathymetry, waves, water levels and wave-induced runup....
master thesis 2015
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Bodde, W.P. (author), Pomeroy, A.W.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Lowe, R. (author), van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
Coral reefs are highly valuable ecosystems, which are under an increasing number of environmental pressures. Sedimentation and sediment transport patterns are among key physical drivers of coral reefs, so it is important to improve our understanding of these poorly studied dynamics on reefs. To this purpose, flume experiments were performed on a...
conference paper 2014
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Bodde, W.P. (author)
Coral reefs are highly valuable structures in many respects and it is increasingly important to understand hydrodynamics and morphodynamics around reefs to be able to better protect them and their hinterland. Flume experiments were performed on a scaled fringing reef in the laboratory facilities of Deltares in Delft. The objective of this thesis...
master thesis 2013
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Suzuki, T. (author), Verwaest, T. (author), Veale, W. (author), Trouw, K. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
In this paper, the effect of beach nourishment on wave overtopping in shallow foreshores is investigated with the nonhydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH. Firstly, the applicability of SWASH to model wave overtopping is tested by comparing results with a physical model setup with different storm wall heights on top of an impermeable sea dike. The...
conference paper 2012
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Pomeroy, A. (author), Lowe, R. (author), Symonds, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Moore, C. (author)
A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....
journal article 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...
conference paper 2012
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Smit, P.B. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents numerical modelling of the nearshore transformation of infragravity waves induced by bichromatic wave groups over a horizontal and a sloping bottom. The non-hydrostatic model SWASH is assessed by comparing model predictions with analytical solutions over a horizontal bottom and with detailed laboratory observations for a...
conference paper 2012
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Zijlema, M. (author)
This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to wave propagation over a fringing reef, and the results are discussed and compared with observations obtained from a laboratory experiment subjected to various incident wave conditions. This study focus not only on wave breaking, bottom friction, and...
conference paper 2012
Searched for: subject:"infragravity%5C+waves"
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