SWAN fysica plus: Project HR-ontwikkeling

Modified boundary conditions and field equations for a 2D surf beat model

This progress report refers to work done at the Fluid IVlechanics Section within the framework of the Netherlands Centre for Coastal Research (NCK). In the coastal zone the long wave motion may contribute significantly to the morpho-dynamics, due to its strong correlation with the short wave motion by surf beat. Also wave-group induced edge...

Interaction of Water Waves with a Density-Stratified Fluid in a Rectangular Trench

The interaction of normally incident time-periodic water waves with a density-stratified fluid in a rectangular trench is studied experimentally and theoretically; the fluid outside the trench is homogeneous. This investigation has focused on the excitation of internal waves in the trench by surface waves, and the effects of the internal...

Cross-swell

Laboratory measurements and theoretical derivation of the resulting wave field caused by two incoming regular wave wave fields with the same period, but different direction. Test were performed in the wave basin of Delft University of Technology