Searched for: subject%3A%22long%255C+waves%22
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Mortimer, William (author), Calvert, R. (author), Antonini, A. (author), Greaves, Deborah (author), Raby, Alison (author), van den Bremer, T.S. (author)
Experiments are contaminated by second-order error waves at sub- and super-harmonic frequencies when first-order wave generation is used. Herein, we investigate by experiment the implications of second-order wave generation theory for dynamic wave force and run-up on a vertical wall in shallow to intermediate water depth (k<sub>0</sub>d=0.5−1...
journal article 2023
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Daouk, H. (author)
This report presents the methodology and findings of a study on the impacts of free long waves on dune erosion predictions in XBeach. In this paper a distinction is made between two types of infragravity waves: bound infragravity waves and free infragravity waves. Bound infragravity waves are generated by short-wave group forcings and are bound...
master thesis 2020
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Naporowski, Remy (author)
This report presents the results of a research concerning long waves in the North Sea. ‘Long waves’ in this research is a collective name for various types of waves that are longer than the well-known sea-swell waves, here referred to as ‘short waves’. Wave types that are referred to as long waves are infragravity waves, meteo-tsunami’s, seiches...
master thesis 2020
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Jager, T. (author)
This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...
master thesis 2016
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Suzuki, T. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Verwaest, T. (author), Trouw, K. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)
In this paper, a numerical wave-flow model SWASH, based on non-linear shallow water equation with non- hydrostatic pressure, is applied to the estimation of wave overtopping over a dike in shallow foreshores. First sensitivity analysis is conducted to see the influence of wave generation, grid size, time window and bottom friction by one...
conference paper 2014
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Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
In a situation with a narrow dune, the dune base can be protected with a revetment to reduce dune erosion during extreme events. To quantify the effects of a revetment on storm impact, the functionality of the numerical storm impact model XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) is extended to account for the complex morphodynamics around revetments. Here...
conference paper 2012
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Kaufmann, P.R. (author)
To improve the lightering conditions of bulk carriers in the outer harbor of IJmuiden, the lightering facility will be transfered to a new harbor basin that will be implemented at the location of the dredging depot in the former Averij harbor. The Dutch Directorate-General for Public Works and Water Management (RWS) demands that down time of the...
master thesis 2011
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Wesson, M.A. (author)
Real coastal waves measured at 4 different locations in the world were analyzed in detail. Long travelled swell measured in the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, wind swell from the Atlantic coast of Costa Rica, short period wind waves from the Ebro Delta in Mediterranean coast of Spain, and waves measured during the passing of Hurricane Wilma near...
master thesis 2010
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Van Dongeren, A. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author), Janssen, T. (author), Van Noorloos, J. (author), Steenhauer, K. (author), Steenbergen, G. (author), Reniers, A. (author)
The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...
journal article 2007
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Janssen, T.T. (author)
As ocean surface waves radiate into shallow coastal areas and onto beaches, their lengths shorten, wave heights increase, and the wave shape transforms from nearsinusoidal to the characteristic saw-tooth shapes at the onset of breaking; in the ensuing breaking process the wave energy is cascaded to small-scale turbulent motions in the surf zone....
doctoral thesis 2006
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De Jong, M.P.C. (author)
This thesis focuses on the harbour oscillations that occasionally occur in certain basins of the Port of Rotterdam. Such standing waves, called seiches, need to be taken into account in this harbour area for the design of water protection works (such as dykes) and for the closure management of a movable storm surge barrier, located along the...
doctoral thesis 2004
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Diermanse, F.L.M. (author), Morelissen, R. (author), Dongeren, A.R. van. (author)
report 2004
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Klopman, G. (author), Petit, H.A.H. (author), Battjes, J.A. (author)
The project concerns the influence of long waves on coastal morphology. The modelling of the combined motion of the long waves and short waves in the horizontal plane is done by phase-averaging over the short wave motion and using intra-wave modelling for the long waves, see e.g. Roelvink (1993). The evolution of the long-wave motion and the...
report 2000
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Janssen, T.T. (author)
This thesis studies the relation between short wave groups and long wave motion in the shore-normal case on a uniformly sloping bottom. The short wave groups can be described through two time scales; the time scale of the individual waves and the time scale of the groups. The energy of the individual waves is dissipated through wave breaking and...
master thesis 1999
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Haas, P.C.A. de (author), Rijks, D.C. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Gent, M.R.A. van (author)
report 1999
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Otta, A.K. (author), Dingemans, M.W. (author)
This report describes the formulation, numerical implementation and application of a weakly nonlinear wave model for finite depth based on a Hamiltonian formulation (see Radder, 1992). Due to the type of non-linearity explicitly accounted for in the expansion of the kernel of the Hamiltonian density (sum of kinetic and potential energy per unit...
report 1994
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Valk, C.F. de (author)
report 1993
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Reniers, A. (author)
Parameterization of long waves for the calculation of cross shore transport.
report 1993
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Valk, C.F. de (author)
report 1992
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Veldman, J.J. (author)
report 1991
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