Low-frequency sea-level variability along the Dutch coast: The relation between non-tidal mechanisms and low-frequency variability in sea-level

In this study the contribution of the low-frequency residuals to the sea-level variability has been examined. This is done using 106-year old sea-level record obtained at Hoek van Holland. Computing the mean sea-level per season each year and the corresponding standard deviation one finds an increase in both these features of the sea-level...

Dynamics of resonant low-frequency waves over a schematized fringing coral reef

Low-lying islands are highly vulnerable to wave-induced flooding, with low-frequency waves (frequency <0.04Hz) being one of the main drivers. The impact of these inundations can increase due to wave resonance over coral reefs, which has been observed in the range of low-frequency waves. This study aims to understand the reef resonance...

Low frequency wave resonance in fringing reef environments

Low frequency wave resonance has been postulated to enhance damage to coral reef protected coastlines during storm events. This paper uses the numerical model XBeach to examine the dynamics that contribute to resonance that have been previously observed on a fringing reef on Guam during tropical storm Man-Yi (Péquignet et al., 2009). The methods...

The use of numerical models to determine the response of moored vessels to waves in a complex harbour geometry

A moored vessel can experience large motions when agitated by waves. As a result, mooring lines risk breaking, the ship becomes a dangerously uncontrolled object, but most importantly unloading and loading the ship is made impossible. From an economic perspective, it is thus important to determine vessel motions due to waves at a berth. A...

Short wave breaking effects on low frequency waves

The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...

Low Frequency Waves in the Shoaling and Nearshore Zone

It has been found by many researchers that low frequency (LF) waves dominate the wave energy spectrum in very shallow water. Given that many longshore and cross-shore morphological processes are located within this zone, LF waves play an important role in determining morphological change, especially dune erosion and overwash during storm events....

Shoaling and shoreline dissipation of low?frequency waves

The growth rate, shoreline reflection, and dissipation of low?frequency waves are investigated using data obtained from physical experiments in the Delft University of Technology research flume and by parameter variation using the numerical model Delft3D?SurfBeat. The growth rate of the shoaling incoming long wave varies with depth with an...

Generation of low-frequency waves due to obliquely incident grouped short waves

Looking at a surfzone, one immediately notices the short breaking waves. Looking more carefully, will show in most cases that the wave height of the breaking waves is not constant, but varies in time. Often one may observe that groups of relatively high waves are followed by groups of lower waves. This short wave groupiness may cause low...