Searched for: subject%3A%22rip%255C+currents%22
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Jacobs, R.P.M. (author)
The nearshore zone is an active zone that can be quite inhospitable to humans due to violent wave breaking and strong rip currents. Rip currents are shore normal jet-like currents that typically extend from near the shoreline out past the line of breaking waves. Observations have concluded that a rip current system generally consists of 4 parts....
master thesis 2010
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MacMahan, J.H. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author)
Observations of velocity fluctuations with periods between about 4 and 30 min, thus longer than infragravity waves and referred to as very low frequency (VLF) surf zone motions, are described and compared with numerical simulations. The VLF motions discussed here exclude instabilities (generated by the wave-driven alongshore current velocity...
journal article 2010
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Beron-Vera, F.J. (author), Olascoaga, M.J. (author)
The trapping and ejection of surfzone floating material is examined by unveiling Lagrangian Coherent Structures (LCSs) hidden in the pulsating rip?current surface velocity field produced by a three?dimensional numerical model resolving wave?group induced Very Low Frequency motions (VLFs). LCSs explain the typically observed patchiness of flotsam...
journal article 2010
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Brown, J. (author), MacMahan, J. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Thornton, E. (author)
Absolute and relative diffusivity are measured on a rip-channeled beach using 30 position-tracking drifters released in clusters (4–12 drifters) deployed on 7 days with different wave forcing and tidal elevations at Sand City, Monterey Bay, California. Diffusivity and dispersion were found to be larger on days with rip current flow patterns and...
journal article 2009
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Poort, M.C.L. (author)
Detailed laboratory measurements of the wave and current field induced by bi-chromatic waves incident on an artificial surfing reef are presented. Strong wave focussing occurs on the surfing reef. Both PTV and in-situ measurements are reported that show the presence of a strong rip current flowing oblique off-shore. Observed water level set-up...
master thesis 2007
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Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), MacMahan, J.H. (author), Thornton, E.B. (author), Stanton, T.P. (author)
Numerical computations are used to explain the presence of very low frequency motions (VLFs), with frequencies less than 0.004 Hz, in the rip current velocity signals observed during the Rip-current field Experiment (RIPEX) field experiment. Observations show that the VLF motions are most intense within the surfzone and then quickly taper off in...
journal article 2007
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MacMahan, J.H. (author)
Field observations of rip currents have been one of the most difficult measurements to obtain, due to the hazardous nature and the fact the rip current channels tend to migrate. This dissertation examines: 1) innovative methods of obtaining nearshore bathymetry and current profiles within rip current channels, 2) the analysis of long-term video...
report 2003
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Vissser, R. (author)
The shoreline develops on several time scales. At some places along the coast the amount of sand in a cross-section decreases continuously and the shoreline shifts landward. This phenomenon is called structural erosion and is often caused by an increasing longshore sediment transport along the coast. When it is necessary to protect the coast, e...
master thesis 2002
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Van Rijn, L.C. (author)
Short note on the relation between rip channels and beach erosion.
report 2000
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Noort, J.C. van (author)
report 1997
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Van Noort, J.C. (author)
Rip currents are narrow and intense, offshore directed flows in the nearshore zone. A rip current is able to transport a considerable amount of water and sediment seaward and may dominate the morphological exchange between surfzone and the offshore. Rip currents are often located nearby lateral boundaries that obstruct the longshore current, but...
master thesis 1997
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Sadr Lahijani, S.M. (author)
This paper describes efficiency of the rip current barriers against the harbour shoaling. For investigation physical model was used. First wave basin geometry and external water supply was optimized in order to obtain a uniform longshore current along the coast. Then current pattern in 2 conditions -after construction of the breakwater and after...
master thesis 1988
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ten Hoopen, H.G.H. (author), van Driel, G.B. (author)
Deze nota geeft weer de resultaten van enige verkenningsvluchten en meetcampagnes, die bedoeld waren om bekendheid te krijgen met de gedragingen en eigenschappen van muistromen voor de Nederlandse kust.
report 1979
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