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Dédina, Daniel (author)Sea turtles, with six of the seven species listed as endangered by the IUCN, face significant threats. Their eggs exhibit sensitivity to fluctuations in temperature, salinity, and moisture during their 6-8-week incubation period. Inundation of these eggs can substantially decrease their viability and influence sex ratios. This thesis centers on...master thesis 2023
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Dijkstra, Twan (author)Estimating wave runup is of crucial importance during a coastal risk assessment. Currently, runup levels are usually calculated using empirical formula derived from experiments conducted at beaches all over the world, and during different beach states. During this research, conditions are analyzed where runup reaches the dune toe and above. The...master thesis 2022
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Solomou, Christodoulos (author)The coastal safety of the dunes are of high importance for low laying countries (Chen et al., 2017). This is especially true for the Netherlands as it is used officially as a safety measure against flooding from extreme weather since 1984 (Rijkswaterstaat, 1989). As of current 1D modelling of the waves is an acceptable method for the Dutch coast...master thesis 2022
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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...journal article 2022
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee,...journal article 2022
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Bruch, William (author), Cordier, Emmanuel (author), Floc'h, France (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's...journal article 2022
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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...journal article 2022
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Chianese, Claudia (author)Wave run-up is the vertical water uprush that occurs when an incident wave impacts on a surface-piercing body. This phenomenon is particularly relevant when waves of high steepness interact with large structures as a result of significant nonlinear interactions between incident and diffracted wave fields. The extent can be further amplificated...master thesis 2021
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Roelvink, Floortje E. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs are effective natural coastal flood barriers that protect adjacent communities. Coral degradation compromises the coastal protection value of reefs while also reducing their other ecosystem services, making them a target for restoration. Here we provide a physics-based evaluation of how coral restoration can reduce coastal flooding...journal article 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...journal article 2021
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Scott, Fred (author), Antolinez, Jose A.A. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Many coral reef-lined coasts are low-lying with elevations <4 m above mean sea level. Climate-change-driven sea-level rise, coral reef degradation, and changes in storm wave climate will lead to greater occurrence and impacts of wave-driven flooding. This poses a significant threat to their coastal communities. While greatly at risk, the...journal article 2020
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van Bemmelen, C.W.T. (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), Darnall, J. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)Beach scarps are nearly vertical seaward facing sandy cliffs within the cross-shore beach profile. These features are often associated with eroding (nourished) coastlines and can reach heights of O(2–3 m). An analysis of a six-year dataset of beach scarp presence at the nourished Sand Engine beach shows that the formation of beach scarps at the...journal article 2020
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Rey, Annouk (author)Many tropical coastlines are fronted by coral reefs and are increasingly exposed to wave attack and wave-driven marine flooding. This problem demands immediate attention as safe habitability of and social and economic activity in reef-lined coastal regions are under serious threat, while these regions are known to have some of the world’s...master thesis 2019
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Roelvink, Floortje (author)Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...master thesis 2019
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Veldt, Timo (author)Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...master thesis 2019
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van Lente, Jan-Willem (author)Flotsam lines may arise on coastal dikes after a storm surge. These lines are generated when material due to debris accumulation on the foreshore has been transported onto the dike surface by wave run-up. Hydraulic engineers who used flotsam line measurements, interpreted a flotsam line as a line which is marking the highest wave run-up. In the...master thesis 2019
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Klaver, S. (author), Nederhoff, C. M. (author), Giardino, A. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), van der Spek, A.J.F. (author)Small island developing states are among the most vulnerable areas to the impact of natural hazards and climate change. Flooding due to storm surges and extreme waves, coastal erosion, and salinization of freshwater lenses are already a serious threat and could lead to irreversible consequences in the coming decades. Reef flat mining is one...journal article 2019
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Dekkers, Jochem (author)A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the...master thesis 2018
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van Bemmelen, Cas (author)Beach scarps are nearly vertical seaward facing walls within the cross-shore beach profile. These features are often associated with eroding (nourished) coastlines and can reach heights of O(2-3 m), leading to serious hazards to beach users and negatively impacting local ecosystems. New insights into beach scarp morphodynamics related to...master thesis 2018
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Klaver, Sebastiaan (author)Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...master thesis 2018