document

The relationship between sea-swell bound wave height and wave shape

de Wit, F.P. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)

The nonlinear wave shape, expressed by skewness and asymmetry, can be calculated from surface elevation or pressure time series using bispectral analysis. Here, it is shown that the same analysis technique can be used to calculate the bound superharmonic wave height. Using measured near-bed pressures from three different field experiments, it...

journal article 2020

document

The effects of wave non-linearity on wave attenuation by vegetation

Phan Khanh, L. (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), Zijlema, M. (author), Truong, H.T.X. (author), Aarninkhof, S.G.J. (author)

Wave attenuation through mangrove forests has received more and more attention, especially in the context of increasing coastal erosion and sea-level-rise. Numerous studies have focused on studying the reduction of wave height in a mangrove forest. However, the understanding of this attenuation process is still in its infancy. In order to obtain...

journal article 2019

document

Gulf of Mexico hurricane wave simulations using SWAN: Bulk formula-based drag coefficient sensitivity for Hurricane Ike

Huang, Y. (author), Weisberg, R.H. (author), Zheng, L. (author), Zijlema, M. (author)

The effects of wind input parameterizations on wave estimations under hurricane conditions are examined using the unstructured grid, third-generation wave model, Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN). Experiments using Hurricane Ike wind forcing, which impacted the Gulf of Mexico in 2008, illustrate that the default and recommended setting for the...

journal article 2013

document

Individual wave height distributions in the coastal zone: Measurements and simulations and the effect of directional spreading

Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Ruessink, G. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author)

Characteristics of the individual wave height distribution in shallow water have been investigated using measured wave data and results of numerical simulations using the non-hydrostatic SWASH model. It is shown that the SWASH model is capable of reproducing the temporal and spatial variation of surface elevation in a wave flume and the...

conference paper 2013

document

The influence of the wave height distribution on the stability of single layer concrete armour units

Zwanenburg, S.A.A. (author)

The dimensions of single layer concrete armour units (interlocking armour units) are calculated with a similar stability relation as the stability relation for quarry stone. In these design formulas an 'average/significant' wave load is used (Hs). Since quarry stone gains its stability only from gravity, this type of armour unit is constructed...

master thesis 2012

document

Wave height from pressure measurements

Winde, H.P. (author)

For this project, Environment Mapping & Surveying (EMS) from South Africa has provided two pressure meters for wave measuring. These pressure meters give a value for the pressure, which must be converted to pressure and after that to a Rayleigh distribution and a wave spectrum. Therefore is the purpose of this report to test the pressure meter...

bachelor thesis 2012

document

Validation of extreme wave and crest height distribution: Using laboratory simulation and field measurement data

Djunaidi, R.P.A. (author)

This thesis has focussed on the validation of extreme wave and crest height distribution. The empirical distribution was simulated based on laboratory and field measurement water elevation data. Both sets of data indicated the presence of abnormal wave ensuring the extreme condition aimed at in this study. The literature review was performed to...

master thesis 2009

document

Extreme wave statistics: Confidence intervals

Caires, S. (author)

report 2007

document

Extreme wave statistics: Methodology and applications to North Sea wave data

Caires, S. (author)

report 2007

document

Dune erosion - product 3: Probabilistic dune erosion prediction method

Steetzel, H.J. (author), Coeveld, E.M. (author), Graaff, J. van de (author), Diermanse, F.L.M. (author), Gent, M.R.A. van (author)

report 2007

document

Wave height distribution observed by ships in the North Atlantic

Olsen, A.S. (author), Schroter, C. (author), Jensen, J.J. (author)

journal article 2006

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Analyse golfstatistiek op relatief diep water: Studie ten behoeve van het afleiden van betrouwbaarheidsintervallen en fysische bovengrenzen van de golfhoogte en golfperiode

Diermanse, F.L.M. (author), Weerts, A.H. (author), Wenneker, I. (author), Groeneweg, J. (author)

report 2005

document

Example of the determination of a design storm

Verhagen, H.J. (author)

Example for the the dataprocessing of wave data in such a way that design values for coastal structures can be determined

book chapter 2004

document

Wave growth limit in shallow water: Analytical study of wave growth curves and SWAN source terms

Groeneweg, J. (author), Dingemans, M.W. (author)

report 2003

document

SWAN fysica plus: Project HR-ontwikkeling

Groenweg, J. (author)

report 2002

document

Physical model investigations on coastal structures with shallow foreshores: 2D model tests with single and double-peaked wave energy spectra

Gent, M.R.A. van (author)

report 1999

document

Nadere analyse van ANAMOS t.o.v. proefresultaten

Somers, C.M.G. (author), Klein Breteler, M. (author)

report 1999

document

Shallow foreshore wave height statistics: A predictive model for the probability of exceedance of wave heights

Groenendijk, H.W. (author), Gent, M.R.A. van (author)

report 1998

document

Shallow foreshore wave height statistics

Groenendijk, H.W. (author)

report 1998

document

Estimating confidence regions for Weibull parameters and quantiles: A comparison of methods

Valk, C.F. de (author)

report 1995