Individual wave height distributions in the coastal zone: Measurements and simulations and the effect of directional spreading

Characteristics of the individual wave height distribution in shallow water have been investigated using measured wave data and results of numerical simulations using the non-hydrostatic SWASH model. It is shown that the SWASH model is capable of reproducing the temporal and spatial variation of surface elevation in a wave flume and the...

The influence of the wave height distribution on the stability of single layer concrete armour units

The dimensions of single layer concrete armour units (interlocking armour units) are calculated with a similar stability relation as the stability relation for quarry stone. In these design formulas an 'average/significant' wave load is used (Hs). Since quarry stone gains its stability only from gravity, this type of armour unit is constructed...

Validation of extreme wave and crest height distribution: Using laboratory simulation and field measurement data

This thesis has focussed on the validation of extreme wave and crest height distribution. The empirical distribution was simulated based on laboratory and field measurement water elevation data. Both sets of data indicated the presence of abnormal wave ensuring the extreme condition aimed at in this study. The literature review was performed to...