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Lowe, R. J. (author), Altomare, C. (author), Buckley, M. L. (author), da Silva, R. F. (author), Hansen, J. E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Domínguez, J. M. (author), Crespo, A. J.C. (author)As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...journal article 2022
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author)Engineered and natural submerged coastal structures (e.g., submerged breakwaters and reefs) modify incident wave fields and thus can alter hydrodynamic processes adjacent to coastlines. Although submerged structures are generally assumed to promote beach protection by dissipating waves offshore and creating sheltered conditions in their lee,...journal article 2022
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Bruch, William (author), Cordier, Emmanuel (author), Floc'h, France (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs represent an efficient natural mechanical coastal defense against ocean waves. The focus of this study is La Saline fringing coral reef, located in the microtidal West of La Réunion Island in the Indian Ocean, frequently exposed to Southern Ocean swell and cyclonic events. The aim is to provide a better understanding of the reef's...journal article 2022
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Buckley, Mark L. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pomeroy, Andrew (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Contardo, Stephanie (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author)Wave breaking on the steep fore-reef slopes of shallow fringing reefs can be effective at dissipating incident sea-swell waves prior to reaching reef shorelines. However, wave setup and free infragravity waves generated during the sea-swell breaking process are often the largest contributors to wave-driven water levels (wave runup) at the...journal article 2022
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Chianese, Claudia (author)Wave run-up is the vertical water uprush that occurs when an incident wave impacts on a surface-piercing body. This phenomenon is particularly relevant when waves of high steepness interact with large structures as a result of significant nonlinear interactions between incident and diffracted wave fields. The extent can be further amplificated...master thesis 2021
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Roelvink, Floortje E. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Coral reefs are effective natural coastal flood barriers that protect adjacent communities. Coral degradation compromises the coastal protection value of reefs while also reducing their other ecosystem services, making them a target for restoration. Here we provide a physics-based evaluation of how coral restoration can reduce coastal flooding...journal article 2021
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Scott, Fred (author), Antolinez, Jose A.A. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)Many coral reef-lined coasts are low-lying with elevations <4 m above mean sea level. Climate-change-driven sea-level rise, coral reef degradation, and changes in storm wave climate will lead to greater occurrence and impacts of wave-driven flooding. This poses a significant threat to their coastal communities. While greatly at risk, the...journal article 2020
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Roelvink, Floortje (author)Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...master thesis 2019
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Veldt, Timo (author)Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...master thesis 2019
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van Lente, Jan-Willem (author)Flotsam lines may arise on coastal dikes after a storm surge. These lines are generated when material due to debris accumulation on the foreshore has been transported onto the dike surface by wave run-up. Hydraulic engineers who used flotsam line measurements, interpreted a flotsam line as a line which is marking the highest wave run-up. In the...master thesis 2019
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Klaver, S. (author), Nederhoff, C. M. (author), Giardino, A. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), van der Spek, A.J.F. (author)Small island developing states are among the most vulnerable areas to the impact of natural hazards and climate change. Flooding due to storm surges and extreme waves, coastal erosion, and salinization of freshwater lenses are already a serious threat and could lead to irreversible consequences in the coming decades. Reef flat mining is one...journal article 2019
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Dekkers, Jochem (author)A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the...master thesis 2018
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Klaver, Sebastiaan (author)Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...master thesis 2018
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Pearson, S.G. (author), Storlazzi, C.D. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)Many low-elevation, coral reef-lined, tropical coasts are vulnerable to the effects of climate change, sea level rise, and wave-induced flooding. The considerable morphological diversity of these coasts and the variability of the hydrodynamic forcing that they are exposed to make predicting wave-induced flooding a challenge. A process-based...journal article 2017
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- Vuren, S. van (author), Verheij, H.J. (author), Crebas, J.I. (author) report 2008
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- Vuren, B.G. van (author) report 2008
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Pullen, T. (author), Allsop, N.W.H. (author), Bruce, T. (author), Kortenhaus, A. (author), Schüttrumpf, H. (author), Van der Meer, J.W. (author)The manual has been intended to assist engineers who are already aware of the general principles and methods of coastal engineering. The manual uses methods and data from research studies around Europe and overseas so readers are expected to be familiar with wave and response parameters and the use of empirical equations for prediction. Users...report 2007
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- Klis, H. van der (author) report 2004
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- Diermanse, F.L.M. (author), Morelissen, R. (author), Dongeren, A.R. van. (author) report 2004
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- Diermanse, F.L.M. (author) report 2003