Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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Vasarmidis, Panagiotis (author), Klonaris, Georgios (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Stratigaki, Vasiliki (author), Troch, Peter (author)
Despite the increasing use of non-hydrostatic models in the study of wave processes in coastal regions, there is still limited understanding of the non-linear properties of the governing equations and how they improve with increased vertical resolution. In this study, the governing equations of the non-hydrostatic wave model SWASH are...
journal article 2024
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Suzuki, T. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Willems, Marc (author), Dan, Sebastian (author)
Understanding key flooding processes such as wave overtopping and overflow (i.e., water flows over a structure when the crest level of the structure is lower than the water level in front) is crucial for coastal management and coastal safety assessment. In port and harbour environments, waves are not only perpendicular to the coastal...
journal article 2023
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Alferink, M. (author), Gijón Mancheño, A. (author), Suzuki, Tomohiro (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
The coastline of Demak, Indonesia, has been eroding during the<br/>last 15 years. Coastal retreat in Demak is caused by a combination<br/>of mangrove deforestation and local subsidence due to groundwater<br/>extraction in the nearby city of Semarang. To restore the lost mangrove<br/>forest, permeable dams, consisting of bamboo poles with a<br/...
journal article 2023
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), van Rooijen, Arnold (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), de Wit, F.P. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not straightforward as it requires appropriate boundary conditions in combination with a large domain size and long...
journal article 2023
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Michels, Dirk-Jan (author)
On the east coast of Romania, at Eforie, coastal erosion manifests. To strengthen the coastal area a large coastal protection project was setup involving beach nourishment combined with the construction of breakwaters. The breakwaters are designed with the well-known modified Van der Meer formulas. To ensure confidence in the breakwaters...
master thesis 2022
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Nguyên, Hà (author)
A sea-dike system is of importance for the protection of the hinterland. However, the effect of very gentle and shallow sloping foreshores (in the order up to 1 in 1000) on wave overtopping processes has not yet been quantified enough and, thus, so far is not well understood. This dissertation seeks an answer to the question of whether the...
doctoral thesis 2022
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Suzuki, T. (author), García-Feal, Orlando (author), Domínguez, José M. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author)
Ongoing climate change is a significant threat to coastal communities. To understand potential risks during extreme storm events, detailed post-overtopping processes are investigated using DualSPHysics and SWASH with a newly developed approach. It is a calibrated-based wave generation: a target incident wave is first obtained from the...
journal article 2022
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Wolgamot, Hugh (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Predictions of the wave-induced response of floating structures that are moored in a harbour or coastal waters require an accurate description of the (nonlinear) evolution of waves over variable bottom topography, the interactions of the waves with the structure, and the dynamics of the mooring system. In this paper, we present a new advanced...
journal article 2022
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van Noort, Rieneke (author)
Coral reefs are vital to the prosperity of the world and the local communities by providing food and coastal protection. Coral reefs are home to 25% of marine life and have therefore gained the nickname ’rainforest of the sea’. However, the reefs are being damaged by climate change and human intervention, resulting in an alarming rate of...
master thesis 2021
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da Silva, Renan F. (author), Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author)
Analysis of the mean (wave-averaged) momentum balance is a common approach used to explain the physical forcing driving wave set-up and mean currents in the nearshore zone. Traditionally this approach has been applied to phase-averaged models but has more recently been applied to phase-resolving models using post-processing, whereby model...
journal article 2021
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Rijnsdorp, D.P. (author), Buckley, Mark L. (author), da Silva, Renan F. (author), Cuttler, Michael V.W. (author), Hansen, Jeff E. (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author), Green, Rebecca H. (author), Storlazzi, Curt D. (author)
Two-dimensional mean wave-driven flow and setup dynamics were investigated at a reef-lagoon system at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia, using the numerical wave-flow model, SWASH. Phase-resolved numerical simulations of the wave and flow fields, validated with highly detailed field observations (including &gt;10 sensors through the energetic...
journal article 2021
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Dào, H.T. (author), Hofland, Bas (author), Suzuki, Tomohiro (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author), Mai, Tri (author), Tuan, Le Xuan (author)
Mangrove forests, that often act as natural coastal defences, enormously suffered due to ongoing climate change and human disturbances. Thus, it is necessary to have a countermeasure to mitigate the loss of mangroves. Wooden fences are becoming a viable nature-based solution to protect vulnerable replanted mangrove forests. However, the wooden...
journal article 2021
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Vasarmidis, Panagiotis (author), Stratigaki, Vasiliki (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Zijlema, Marcel (author), Troch, Peter (author)
The weakly reflective wave generation is a wave generation and absorption method in phase-resolving models, based on the assumption that the waves propagating towards the wave generation boundary are small amplitude shallow water waves with direction perpendicular to the boundary. This assumption makes the method weakly reflective for...
journal article 2021
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Nguyên, Hà (author), Hofland, Bas (author), Chinh, Vu Dan (author), Stive, M.J.F. (author)
The spectral wave period T<sub>m-1,0</sub> at the toe of sea-dikes is a crucial parameter to predict wave overtopping discharge over sea-dikes. It is known from literature that this period quickly increases when waves reach shallow foreshores; however, sometimes the assumption is made that the wave period remains constant from offshore to...
journal article 2020
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Gruwez, Vincent (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Streicher, Maximilian (author), Cappietti, Lorenzo (author), Kortenhaus, Andreas (author), Troch, Peter (author)
Three open source wave models are applied in 2DV to reproduce a large-scale wave flume experiment of bichromatic wave transformations over a steep-sloped dike with a mildly-sloped and very shallow foreshore: (i) the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes equations solver interFoam of OpenFOAM® (OF), (ii) the weakly compressible smoothed particle...
journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Zanuttigh, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Roeber, Volker (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)
Practitioners often employ diverse, though not always thoroughly validated, numerical models to directly or indirectly estimate wave overtopping (q) at sloping structures. These models, broadly classified as either phase-resolving or phase-averaged, each have strengths and limitations owing to the physical schematization of processes within...
journal article 2020
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Suzuki, T. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Yasuda, Tomohiro (author), Verwaest, Toon (author)
Due to ongoing climate change, overtopping risk is increasing. In order to have effective countermeasures, it is useful to understand overtopping processes in details. In this study overtopping flow on a dike with gentle and shallow foreshores are investigated using a non-hydrostatic wave-flow model, SWASH (an acronym of Simulating WAves till...
journal article 2020
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Zijlema, Marcel (author)
This paper aims to present the extension of the non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH with the covolume method to build discretization schemes on unstructured triangular grids. Central to this method that is free of spurious pressure modes, is the use of dual pairs of meshes that are mutually orthogonal, such as the Delaunay-Voronoi mesh...
journal article 2020
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Komen, Rutger (author)
Near IJburg a new Island named Strandeiland is being build to create living area. On the eastern part of this island an inlet is situated. In this research the wave penetration in this inlet is simulated using the numerical models SWAN and SWASH. With the results of the simulations the verticall walls which surround the inlet are dimensioned....
master thesis 2019
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Maroudi, Konstantina (author)
A main challenge port engineers had to tackle in recent years is wave penetration inside a harbour, as it determines vessels’ safe sailing and mooring, possibly causes unwanted vessel movements, and unequivocally regulates the execution of port operations. A physical scale model can describe wave penetration in a complete way. However, the...
master thesis 2019
Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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