Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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Sukchaiwan, Emmy (author)
The Falsterbo Peninsula is a low-lying area that provides a home to 7,000 residents, as well as various bird and vegetation species. To protect this densely populated area, the municipality was granted a permit to build flood protections. As part of the strategy, the dune system in the study area will be used as natural barriers against storm...
master thesis 2023
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Le Grand, Oscar (author)
Sea level rise will increase the risk of flooding in coastal areas. This poses a risk to the coastal protection as well as rivers and lakes close to the coast. Solutions are needed to cope with this threat. The past decade, nature based solutions have gained significant interest. One of these solutions could be sandy foreshores. Due to the use...
master thesis 2022
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Solomou, Christodoulos (author)
The coastal safety of the dunes are of high importance for low laying countries (Chen et al., 2017). This is especially true for the Netherlands as it is used officially as a safety measure against flooding from extreme weather since 1984 (Rijkswaterstaat, 1989). As of current 1D modelling of the waves is an acceptable method for the Dutch coast...
master thesis 2022
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Bertoncelj, Vesna (author)
Many coral reef islands are low-lying, which in combination with population growth, sea level rise and possibly more frequent extreme weather events is likely to result in increased coastal risk (e.g. Storlazzi et al., 2015). On smaller scales of O(10 km) wave-driven coastal inundation can be accurately predicted with advanced models such as...
master thesis 2021
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de Beer, A. F. (author), McCall, R. T. (author), Long, J. W. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
The prediction of wave runup, as well as its components, time-averaged setup and the time-varying swash, is a key element of coastal storm hazard assessments, as wave runup controls the transitions between morphodynamic response types such as dune erosion and overwash, and the potential for flooding by wave overtopping. While theoretically...
journal article 2021
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de Ridder, M.P. (author), Smit, Pieter B. (author), van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), McCall, Robert T. (author), Nederhoff, Kees (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
A 2-layer non-hydrostatic model with improved dispersive behaviour is presented. Due to the assumption of a constant non-hydrostatic pressure distribution in the lower layer, the dispersive behaviour is improved without much additional computational time. A comparison with linear wave theory showed that this 2-layer model gives a better...
journal article 2021
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Kok, Emma (author)
In the Waal bed degradation occurs, which is mainly induced by a large number of river regulations measures done in the past. Rijkswaterstaat develops possible measures and new techniques to stop riverbed erosion and/or mitigate the negative effects. One of the possible new techniques to reduce riverbed erosion locally is groyne field...
master thesis 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author)
Despite the widely recognized role of infragravity (IG) waves in many often-hazardous nearshore processes, spectral wave models, which exclude IG-wave dynamics, are often used in the design and assessment of coastal dikes. Consequently, the safety of these structures in environments where IG waves dominate remains uncertain. Here, we combine...
journal article 2020
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Scott, Fred (author), Antolinez, Jose A.A. (author), McCall, Robert (author), Storlazzi, Curt (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author), Pearson, S.G. (author)
Many coral reef-lined coasts are low-lying with elevations <4 m above mean sea level. Climate-change-driven sea-level rise, coral reef degradation, and changes in storm wave climate will lead to greater occurrence and impacts of wave-driven flooding. This poses a significant threat to their coastal communities. While greatly at risk, the...
journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Zanuttigh, B. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), van der Meer, J.W. (author), Altomare, Corrado (author), Suzuki, T. (author), Roeber, Volker (author), Oosterlo, P. (author)
Practitioners often employ diverse, though not always thoroughly validated, numerical models to directly or indirectly estimate wave overtopping (q) at sloping structures. These models, broadly classified as either phase-resolving or phase-averaged, each have strengths and limitations owing to the physical schematization of processes within...
journal article 2020
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Roelvink, Floortje (author)
Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...
master thesis 2019
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Veldt, Timo (author)
Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...
master thesis 2019
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Klaver, S. (author), Nederhoff, C. M. (author), Giardino, A. (author), Tissier, M.F.S. (author), van Dongeren, A. R. (author), van der Spek, A.J.F. (author)
Small island developing states are among the most vulnerable areas to the impact of natural hazards and climate change. Flooding due to storm surges and extreme waves, coastal erosion, and salinization of freshwater lenses are already a serious threat and could lead to irreversible consequences in the coming decades. Reef flat mining is one...
journal article 2019
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Bertin, Xavier (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Arnaud, Gaël (author)
Wave run-up and dune overwash are typically assessed using empirical models developed for a specific range of often-simplistic conditions. Field experiments are essential in extending these formulae; yet obtaining comprehensive field data under extreme conditions is often challenging. Here, we use XBeach Surfbeat (XB-SB)-a shortwave-averaged...
journal article 2019
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Leijnse, Tim (author)
Tropical cyclones (TCs) have tremendous impact on coastal communities in terms of damage due to flooding and high wind velocities, as shown by the recent hurricane season of 2017. Coastal flooding due to TCs can be contributed to different types of forcing (e.g. high offshore water levels, rainfall, etc.), or multiple at the same time (i.e....
master thesis 2018
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)
The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...
journal article 2018
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Peters, Jochem (author)
The coastal waters of Nigeria are a difficult environment to build structures to control the local morphology and hydrodynamic conditions to ones desire. This difficulty is a consequence of the persistent high-energy swell wave climate and Longshore Sediment Transport (LST) in the order of one million cubic metres per<br/>year. Besides these...
master thesis 2018
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Klaver, Sebastiaan (author)
Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...
master thesis 2018
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de Beer, Anne (author)
Wave runup is generated by energy which remains after wave breaking and travels farther to the coast in the form of a bore. It can be seen as a thin wedge of water running up the beach face (Brocchini and Baldock, 2008). Under storm conditions runup is responsible for beach and dune erosion and accurate runup predictions are therefore required ...
master thesis 2017
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Bart, L.J.C. (author)
XBeach is a process-based morphological model that has been used for modelling short term behaviour of beaches and dunes. In the past years interest has been shown by researchers and engineers to use XBeach for longer simulation periods (multiple years). XBeach has multiple modules: stationary mode is often used during calm conditions and...
master thesis 2017
Searched for: subject%3A%22waves%22
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