On the projected changes in New Zealand's wave climate and its main drivers

Wave climatologies from historical and projected simulations of the ACCESS1.0, MIROC5 and CNRM-CM5 Global Circulation Models (GCM) were sourced from the Coordinated Ocean Wave Climate Project (COWCLIP) and downscaled using the SWAN wave model. Biases between GCM's historical simulations and a regional hindcast were assessed, and the two best...

Wind-Wave Attenuation in Arctic Sea Ice: A Discussion of Remote Sensing Capabilities

Wind-generated waves strongly interact with sea ice and impact air-sea exchanges, operations at sea, and marine life. Unfortunately, the dissipation of wave energy is not well quantified and its possible effect on upper ocean mixing and ice drift is still mysterious. As the Arctic is opening up and wave energy increases, the limited amount of...

Nonlinear infragravity–wave interactions on a gently sloping laboratory beach

A high-resolution dataset of three irregular wave conditions collected on a gently sloping laboratory beach is analyzed to study nonlinear energy transfers involving infragravity frequencies. This study uses bispectral analysis to identify the dominant, nonlinear interactions and estimate energy transfers to investigate energy flows within the...

On the added value of coupled wind-wave-current modelling

Tides, currents, wind, waves, and sea level (surge) influence each other in several ways. These interactions are often not accounted for. We here review some recent papers that report results from coupled modelling with the aim to get an impression of how large coupled effects might be, and in which regions and under which circumstances they...

Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation

As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a smooth, universal shape in which initially higher harmonic peaks emerge that disappear as wave propagate further into the surf-zone. The current formulation of...

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Analysis of low frequency waves at Petten

6th International workshop on wave hindcasting and forecasting, November 6-10, 2000, Monterey, California, USA

preprints of all full papers of the workshop of wave hindcasting and forecasting, Monterey, California

The maximum significant wave height in the Southern North Sea

The maximum possible wave conditions along the Dutch coast, which seem to be dominated by the limited water depth, have been estimated in the present study with numerical simulations. Discussions with meteorologists suggest that the maximum possible sustained wind speed in North Sea conditions is between 40 and 50 m/s (roughly equal to the wind...

Hindcast wave information for the US Atlantic Coast

This report provides revised wave information at 108 nearshore locations along the US Atlantic coastline and 3 stations along the north coast of Puerto Rico. It supersedes information provided in WIS Reports 2, 6, and 9. The information is derived from wind fields developed in a previous hindcast for the period 1956-1975 and the present version...

Kinematics and Directionality of Waves in the Surf Zone

Realistic modelling of the internal kinematics of wind waves breaking on a beach is of great practical importance, e.g. for the modelling of coastal processes and for the design of coastal structures. A fundarnental aspect in this modelling concerns. the relation between the surface elevation and the internal kinematics. In this respect it...

Response of wave directions to changes in Wind directions

A relaxation model for the response of the main wave direction to changes in wind direction is derived with a parametric approach of the energy balance of locally generated wind waves. An expression to quantify the time scale of this model is obtained from empirical growth relations of waves in a fetch-unlimited situation. The model is compared...

Averaged two-dimensional low-frequency wave spectrum of wind waves

This report deals with second order, two-dimensional low frequency waves induced by the non-linear interactions of the first order component waves in a two-dimensional short wave field. The convolution to calculate the averaged two-dimensional low frequency wave spectrum is developed. Any given two-dimensional short wave spectrum can be used as...

Propagation of short gravity waves in shoaling waters: Refraction and diffraction

In this report,a description is given of some approximation methods, to solve the problem of short wave propagation in shoaling water. The problem is stated as an elliptic initial value problem, which is in general not properly posed. After reduction of the wave equation to the Helmholtz equation, the transition to amplitude and phase is...

Evaluation and development of water wave theories for engineering application, vol 1: Presentation of research results

Volume I of this report presents the results of a research program to evaluate and develop water wave theories for engineering application. A second volume of this report presents wave tables developed for preliminary design in offshore problems. Volume I describes: (1) an evaluation of the degree to which various available wave theories satisfy...

Statistical evaluation of wave conditions in a deltaic area

Coastal engineering problems concerning wind waves and swell can be solved with the aid of hydraulic or mathematical models. The irregular wave field i.e. the state of the sea surface can be described in a sufficient way for engineering problems either by parameters such as significant wave height and mean wave period, or in the form of power...

Generation of irregular waves on model scales

Wind-wave flumes have been added to the laboratory facilities since a long time, in order to simulate natural wind lv-aves. Most wind-wave flui'nes have been equipped in addition with mechanical (regular) wave generators to avoid extreme small model scales. For some time past a programmed (irregular) wave generator has been installed in one of...

New wind-wave flumes at Delft

On March 24, 1969, the new wind-wave flumes at the Delft Hydraulics Laboratory (Figures 5 and 6) were officially opened by the Director-General of the Rijkswaterstaat. The design work started in 1964, and the building and installations 1tlere completed in November 1968. A general description of this equipment and some insight into its underlying...