Modelling of coastline evolution due to tidal inlet migration: real-world case studies

In the light of climate change, sea-level rise, and human interventions, increasing the predictability of the coastline evolution on a temporal scale from years to decades are highly demanding for adaptation planning. However the rapid development in the coastal modelling capabilities, more efforts are needed to bridge the gap between the...

Wave climate variability and longshore sediment transport on The Doce river delta coast (Brazil)

Deltas are prograding landforms that exist at the interface between rivers and open water systems (marine or lake) and are formed by the deposition of great loads of fluvial sediments. Depending on the influence of the dominant process, deltas can be classified as river-, tide-, or wave-dominated and they will display distinct morphologies ...

Modeling the hydrodynamics of a tidal inlet during storms

Tidal inlets are strategic locations for the economic development and ecosystem well-being of barrier islands and coastal regions. Understanding of the processes that drive the hydrodynamics and morphology of tidal inlets is therefore needed to better manage sediment and infrastructure around these dynamic coastal features (Elko et al. 2020)....

Machine learning improves the modelled wave spectrum in the North Sea

To improve the energy density and directional spectra computed with the SWAN model for the North Sea, a data-driven model is trained to correct the SWAN spectra. After training of the data-driven model on a year of observed and modelled data, the energy density and directional spectrum are corrected for three locations in the North Sea. When...

Factors regulating sediment fluxes over an engineered foredune and adjacent dune slack

This study aims to identify and understand the annual scale sediment transport patterns in a fully engineered dune-dune slack system that was created from seabed sediments for grey dune and moist dune slack habitat creation at the Delfland coast (the Netherlands). The annual morphological development was analysed using LiDAR elevation data....

Discrete frequency downshifting in wave spectra on shallow water

Wind waves propagating in the coastal zone, are subject to various changes associated primarily with the impact of nonlinear and dissipative processes. Wave transformation leads to change in the shape of wave spectrum. Sometimes, the major peak frequency shifts to the low-frequency region and so-called “frequency downshifting” are observed. It...

Statistical wave properties in shallow water using cnoidal theory

Various properties of wind-generated waves in coastal regions are significantly different from those in deep water regions. The differences are largely due to the influence of bathymetry, which is more pronounced in shallower water. In general, deep water waves are considered a Gaussian random process with only minor discrepancies between the...

A biophysical model for seedling establishment in mangrove forests

Mangrove seedling establishment is crucial to the long-term development of mangrove forests. This study incorporates a process-based approach for seedling establishment in a process-based hydrodynamic model. The biophysical model is used to simulate seedling establishment in the Firth of Thames estuary (New Zealand). The results are compared to...

An investigation on salt marsh resilience to sea-level rise and increased storm intensity

Salt marshes are ecosystems with significant economic and environmental value. They provide numerous services, including nutrient removal, habitat provision and carbon sequestration (Barbier et al., 2011). They are also widely recognised as nature-based solutions for coastal defence due to their ability to buffer storm waves (Leonardi et al.,...

A consistently-scaled frequency domain nonlinear mild-slope equation model for surface wave propagation

As surface waves propagate from deep water toward shallow coastal areas, their ensuing transformation is due to the influence of bathymetry and several important phenomena, such as refraction, shoaling ,and nonlinear effects. Nonlinear wave models based on the classical Boussinesq equation(Peregrine, 1967)have evidenced good performance in...

Coastal erosion mitigation based on artificial nourishments and sand bypassing systems: Barra-Vagueira, Portugal

Barra-Vagueira coastal stretch, located downdrift of the Aveiro Harbour, NW coast of Portugal, is anerosion hotspot, presenting,in the last 50 years,erosion rates that reached 8m/year(Santoset al.,2014).Thiscoast is subject to a very energetic wave climate, inducing a net littoral transport from North to South that reaches valuesaround 106m3...

Assessment of wave overtopping based on numerical modelling and historic events for an early warning system

Low-lying coastal areas can be very vulnerable to extreme storms inducing overtopping and flood events with severe socioeconomic consequences. Also, the associated risk is expected to increase due to sea level rise and coastal population growth. Under this threat, early warning systems (EWS) are a crucial tool for coastal planning and management...

Lagrangian sediment transport modelling as a tool for investigating Coastal connectivity

Estuaries and coasts can be conceptualized as connected networks of water and sediment fluxes. These dynamic geomorphic systems are governed by waves, tides, wind, and river input, and evolve according to complex nonlinear transport processes. To predict their evolution, we need to better understand the pathways that sediment takes from source...

Proposal and verification of rip current detection using AI

There are from 2,000 to 3,000 rescues including those of unconscious people every year on the beaches of Japan, as shown in Fig. 1. The occurrence of drowning accidents is mainly caused by the rip current (Ishikawa et al., 2014), it accounts for 48 % of drowning accidents, as shown in Fig. 2. Also, in Australia, the United States and the United...

Analysis of nonlinear ship-induced 3d wave fields using nonlinear fourier transforms

In the past decade, observations in the German estuaries such as the rivers Elbe and Weser show increasingly serious damage to bank protection structures (groins and revetments). This damage is caused mainly by waves induced by the passing of big container ships in the shallow and narrow maritime waterways. These ship-induced 3D wave fields...