The formation and evolution of coastal dunes result from a complex interplay of eco-morphodynamic processes. State-of-the-art models can simulate aeolian transports and morphological dune evolution under certain conditions. However, a model combining these processes for coastal engineering applications was not yet available. This study aims to develop a predictive tool for dune development to inform coastal management decisions and interventions. The aeolian sediment transport model AeoLiS is extended with functionalities that allow for simulations of coastal landforms. The added functionalities include the effect of topographic steering on wind shear, avalanching of steep slopes and vegetation processes in the form of growth and wind shear reduction. The model is validated by simulating four distinct coastal landforms; barchan-, parabolic-, embryo dunes and blowouts. Simulations, based on real-world conditions, replicate the landform formation, migration rates and seasonal variability.

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Sea level rise causes more difficulties for coastal maintenance. Although hard structures were built in the past to prevent for flooding, nature based solutions are preferred more recently. For the application of nature based solutions, a better understanding of the coastal processes is desired. Dry sand is transported towards the dunes by aeolian processes, whose bedform development is understudied while knowledge on this is important. One of the most visually clear bedforms are organised dry sand over a moist beach, referred to as sand strips. In order to improve the knowledge on sand strips, this study focusses on sand strip properties and occurring environmental conditions during their presence at the Noordwijk beach, using data of a terrestrial laser scanning (TLS) device.

Sand strips are detected with the Fourier transform. Since surface moisture can be derived from the reflectance intensity of the TLS-data, and due to the different moisture content of the sand strips compared to the surrounding beach, the Fourier transform is applied on the reflectance intensity. Sand strips are detected based on the energy in the variance density spectrum for a wavenumber-range corresponding to sand strips. The detected sand strips were oriented alongshore to oblique-alongshore with a mean wavelength and height of 13.2 m and 4.0 cm respectively, which is in correspondence with similar sand strip-related studies.

According to sand samples of the beach the grain size varies in transverse direction of the sand strips, comparable with the grain size variation of aeolian sand ripples. The coarser grains were located at the crest and the finer grains at the lee-side. Additionally, the samples also showed a significant difference in gravimetric moisture content between the sand strips and surrounding beach, as expected due to the reflectance-based detection. At the sand strips, the maximum moisture content was 5.3%, while the minimum determined moisture content at the surrounding beach was 6.0%. The mean values were equal to 2.6% and 9.4% for the sand strips and surrounding beach respectively.

In addition, sand strips mainly occurred during (almost) alongshore wind events with a wind velocity in excess of 8 m/s. However, the threshold wind velocity for sand strip formation is determined at 10 m/s. Due to the significant height difference that can remain present during precipitation events, these events are not necessarily restrictive factors for sand strip development, although the reflectance intensity suggests different. Furthermore, sand strips mostly formed during falling tide and they were mostly destroyed during rising tide.

The one life cycle of the sand strips that is analysed showed dynamic sand strip behaviour. The migration rate of the sand strips varied over the width of the beach, causing more inland oriented sand strips. This dynamic behaviour cannot be related to weather conditions since they remained constant, however it could be related to topographic steering caused by the dune. Nevertheless, the results of the dynamic properties are only indicative and encourage further study of dynamic sand strip properties.

Coastal aeolian sediment transport is influenced by supply-limiting factors caused by sediment sorting by grain size. Sorting processes can lead to coarsening of the bed surface and influence the formation of aeolian ripples. However, the influence sorting processes and bedforms might have on the magnitude of the transport is not fully understood. This study explores sorting processes and their influence on the magnitude and mode of aeolian transport by using sediment tracers. Sand was painted in different colors according to particle size and placed on a supratidal beach in Noordwijk, the Netherlands. Several experiments were conducted with varying wind speeds. Surface sampling and cameras tracked the sand color movement on the bed surface, and wind velocity was measured. The tracer experiments showed that ripples developed in moderate wind conditions. Once the ripples had formed, the supply of finer tracer grains in the downwind direction decreased over time, while the supply of coarser grains remained constant. A linear relationship between ripple migration speed and wind speed was found. For higher wind speeds, no ripples or differences in transport of grain size fractions were observed. Instead, alternating phases of erosion and deposition of the bed surface were observed, which could not be related to local variations in wind velocity. Based on these results and literature, a conceptual model was developed for an active bed surface layer with two transport regimes corresponding to moderate (I) and high (II) wind speeds. The conceptual model is intended to guide the selection of aeolian sediment transport models as a function of wind speed, bed characteristics, and upwind sediment supply. For Regime I, transport could be modeled using a linear relationship between sediment transport and wind speed and for Regime II using a third power relationship in combination with a process-based model accounting for supply limitations.

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Dunes are the primary sea defence along the Dutch coast. This research investigated the development between 1965 and 2021 of the beaches and dunes of the Hoogheemraadschap Hollands Noorderkwartier (HHNK) area which stretches from IJmuiden to northern Texel. This research used an advanced data analysis on the annual coastal elevation data. The coastline of the HHNK area is maintained by several different measures including nourishments, planting and removal of grass, placing reed fences and building regulations. The aim of this research was to relate the investigated developments of the beaches and dunes to these measures and natural processes.
A literature study was performed first, to get acquainted with the research area and the processes that drive the beach and dune development in the area. In four phases, the developments and their relationships with the drivers were investigated for several subsections of the research area that showed similar behaviour. In phase 1, the coastal profile data was collected for multiple transects spanning the research area. Characteristic parameters describing features of the dune and beach were derived from the coastal profile data. In phase 2, the collected profile data was decomposed into spatial and temporal patterns by a principal component analysis. In phase 3, the transects of the research area were categorised on the temporal development of their coastal profile using the results of the spatial and temporal decomposition. This created subsections of the coast that showed a similar morphological behaviour. In phase 4, the morphological behaviour of several subsections was investigated and related to the natural and human drivers. The relationships between the drivers and the developments were investigated for several subsections, varying in morphological behaviour and drivers, to gain insight into these relationships for the entire research area.
The coastal categorisation resulted in 36 subsections which were mainly continuous in space with the exception of four clusters. Seven subsections were studied in more detail, by investigating the development of several characteristic parameters derived from the coastal profiles, like dune volume, beach slope and shoreline location among others. The shoreline location and beach width showed a strong correlation with the nourishments. The beach slope and width were expected to influence the dune volume changes, which was not supported by the results. The beach width is assumed to be larger than the critical fetch length and the variations in beach slope had a marginal effect on the transport capacity. The presence of beach pavilions limited the dune growth in both height and volume, but regularly moving the pavilions did allow for a seaward migration of the dune front. The effect of small beach houses on the dune volume change was found negligible. Maintenance works of HHNK influenced the dune development locally. The placement of reed fences caused seaward migration of the dune front and the creation of blow-outs increased the dune volume behind the most seaward dune. The strongest dune volume increase was found at coastal areas behind shoals that reduced the incoming wave energy.
The coastal categorisation succeeded in grouping transects with a similar development of their modified coastal profiles. Several modifications were proposed to improve the categorisation of the original profiles and to take into account smaller scale processes. Nourishment was distinguished as most important driver for the development of the coastal area, which has maintained the shoreline location and caused a trend break in several other characteristic parameters. Human influences like buildings, coastal structures and reed fences have a strong local effect on the development of the beaches and dunes. Further research could take into account wave and wind climate, water level variations and grain size quantitatively to get a more comprehensive study of the relationships between the development and the drivers.

The Building with Nature approach has been gaining ground in hydraulic engineering, increasing the importance of understanding the cross-shore morphodynamic processes. The intertidal zone, where marine and aeolian processes come together, is an important link in the transport of sediment from the sea towards the dunes. The grain size distribution affects the sediment supply in the intertidal zone. This research investigates the effect of marine processes on the cross-shore variations of the grain size distribution in the intertidal zone by using a one-dimensional non linear shallow water XBeach model.
The intertidal zone is subject to shoaling, surf and swash zone processes. The grain size influences the beach slope, the initiation of motion and settling to the bed. The cross-shore sediment transport is the combination of sediment that is stirred up from the bed and subsequently transported. Breaking induced turbulence enhances stirring of sediment from the bed and keeps sediment in suspension. The amount of stirring and the transport direction depends on the wave conditions.
Input and control data for the model study was provided by the Scanex 2020 fieldwork campaign at Noordwijk, the Netherlands. The ADV velocity data combined with a pressure signal has been used for the tidal and incoming wave signal. Cross-shore profiles have been determined in Matlab based on terrestrial laser scans. Soil samples of the intertidal zone were taken with a sand scraper and analyzed with a sieve tower. For the initial grain size distribution is the average distribution of 14 samples on a transect was used. Based on wave, wind and soil sampling data a model period from 29-2-2020 02:00 to 10-3-2020 13:00 was selected.
The XBeach model used is as described by Reniers et al. (2013), but with a time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy and a different implementation of the Riemann boundary. The model consisted of a 176 x 3 grid with a grid size of dx=1 m and dy=5 m. For the initial bathymetry the laser scan of 29-2-2020 02:00 was used. The initial grain size was imposed on all the model grid cells. Additional to the standard run, runs have been performed to research the effect of a storm, the model sensitivity and the effect of aeolian transport.
The model shows a pattern of cross-shore grain size variations with coarser sediment from x=20 to x=56 m, finer sediment from x=57 to x=105 m and fluctuating grain size from x=106 to x=136 m compared to the initial grainsize. After 24 h a grain size pattern establishes with a clear deposition of fine sediment on the upper beach. The pattern remained stable for nearly the full model period. After 200 hours the fines become less prominent and move onshore. On the intratidal scale sediment becomes coarser when submerged and finer when emerged, except near the high water line where fine sediment is deposited.
The model reproduced the same pattern of grain size variations over the cross-shore as was found in the soil samples of 10-3-2020. As the cross-shore grain size pattern remained stable during the model period, processes on the spring-neap time scale or storm time scale seem to govern the cross-shore variations of the grain size. For the aeolian transport this would imply that for this model period the fine sediment supply is controlled on the same time scales. Nevertheless, considering that aeolian transport could have resulted in coarsening of the fines in the upper intertidal zone, processes over a single tide, could be more important than was visible in the model result.

Coastal aeolian sediment transport is influenced by supply-limiting factors such as sediment sorting by grain size. Sorting processes can cause a coarsening of the bed surface and influence the formation of aeolian ripples. However, it is not fully understood what influence sorting processes have on the magnitude of this transport. In this study, sorting processes of different grain sizes when interacting with wind and their influence on the magnitude of aeolian transport are investigated by performing a tracer study and developing a conceptual model. Sand grains were painted in different colors according to particle size and placed on Noordwijk beach, Netherlands. Several experiments were conducted with varying wind speeds. Surface sampling and cameras tracked the sand color movement on the bed surface, and wind speed and direction were measured. The tracer experiments show that for moderate wind conditions, ripples developed. Once the ripples have formed, the supply of finer tracer grains in downwind direction decreased over time, while the supply of coarser grains remained constant. A strong linear relationship between ripple speed and wind speed was found. For higher wind velocities, no ripples or differences in transport of grain size fractions were observed. Alternating phases of erosion and deposition of upwind sand were observed which could not be related to local variations in wind speed. Based on these results and literature, a conceptual model for an Active Bed Surface Layer (ABSL) with two regimes corresponding to moderate (I), and high (II) wind speeds was developed. The concept enables to estimate the magnitude of aeolian sediment transport as a function of wind speed, bed characteristics, and upwind sediment supply. For Regime I, a linear relationship between sediment transport and wind speed is suggested and for Regime II a third power relationship in combination with a process-based model accounting for supply limitations is suggested.

This thesis describes the development and the characteristics of the coastline along the Dutch coastal zone, managed by Hoogheemraadschap Hollands Noorderkwartier. The coastal zone is a rich environment with multiple stakeholders. These stakeholders use the coastal zone for a range of functions such as safety, nature, business, and recreation. Coastal dunes have been the first line of defense against the sea for many years. On decadal and intercentennial time scale, climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and human intervention (e.g. nourishment), affect the variability of the coastline in different ways. Reports have shown an increase of the mean sea level, which is expected to increase even after the year 2100. Bruun was one of the first researchers, who found a relation between sea level rise and shoreline recession. While Bruuns findings contain the fundamental adaption of the coastline due to sea level rise, the coastline remains a highly complex system. Morphological data has been collected yearly of the Dutch coast as part of the JarKus program. Meanwhile, the data collection and computational power have increased exponentially, while the computational cost has gone down. Combining the newly computational power with the extensive JarKus data set, provides new insight into the complex coastal system. The derived variables from the JarKus data set range from widths, gradients, volumes to heights. These derived variables are combined with nourishment into a high-dimensional data set. Clusters of comparable coastal profiles in the Hoogheemraadschap Hollands Noorderkwartier area, have been made using machine learning techniques. Machine learning techniques such as K-means and the Self-Organizing Map (SOM) contain an intelligence, with the capability of clustering similar high-dimensional objects or data, without knowing the desired output. While both methods have the same goal, K-means moves its centroids inside the data and the SOM moves the data to its centroids (BMU). The advantage of combining both methods, is to keep the topological preservation while having the 'hard' clustering advantage of the K-means, which provides easy interpretation and therefore computations. The coastline of the Noorderkwartier can be broken up into nine clusters. Five of these clusters are classified as main-clusters, having a large number of transects. Four clusters are classified as sub-clusters, having just a few transects. Each of the clusters contains its own characteristic variables. Each of these characteristics originates from its own long-term natural and human-induced causes. The variable dominating the general clustering, is the active profile of the coastline. The lesser dominating variables are the foreshore nourishment, depth of closure and increase in foreshore volume. Meaning that the high-dimensional data set, find their similarities due to these dominant variables. Upon further investigation, the clusters containing the highest active profiles, were also the clusters containing historical larger nourishments. Comparing the yearly change of the standard deviation, shows that the clusters containing larger historical nourishment, have a shifting depth of closure. With respect to the dunes, correlations are found between the dune foot, y-coordinate of the boundary between marine and aeolian transport, dune volume and active width of the dune. While the exact reason for this correlation is still unknown, it shows potential for further research. The results of this research contribute to another step in understanding the complex coastal zone. Hoogheemraadschap Hollands Noorderkwartier can now adjust its policy and approach for each cluster based on the results of this research. For further research, it is now possible to focus on specific clusters with their unique characteristics. Lastly, results highlight the importance of the effect of nourishment on the active profile and with this the future dynamic equilibrium of the coastline.

Coastal dunes are dominant features along much of the world’s sandy coastlines serving as the first line of protection against coastal flooding. Besides this primary purpose, the coastal dunes also provide a variety of other functions such as the supply of drinking water, nature conservation and recreational areas. With the secondary functions in mind, the Dutch coastal management strategy changed in 1990 from erosion control and stabilization of the coastline (reactive) to a policy of dynamic preservation (pro-active) with the introduction of a law called ‘’Dynamic preservation of the Dutch coast’’. This new dynamic strategy naturally induced irregularities in dunes that were completely stabilized before. One of these irregularities is the formation of a blowout. A small depression or hollow in the foredunes formed by wind erosion or wave impact may grow in time as sediment from the beach and foredunes is transported into the back dunes. In several Dutch cases such a blowout feature was artificially initiated as the exchange of sediment from the coastal system into the back dunes enhances the biodiversity significantly. Due to the high importance of the coastal dune performance as flood protection, good understanding and prediction of the (dynamic) coastal dune system is desired. Lately, general interest in this topic increased even more due to new societal challenges, such as decisions on coastal development for longer time scales, more complex management settings and sustainability. Coastal dunes and blowouts are shaped by wind induced sediment transport (aeolian sediment transport), biological - and hydrodynamic processes. To better understand and increase the predictability of dynamic systems, this study focuses on simulating the development of artificially initiated blowout features by including the combination of these relevant processes in the numerical model AeoLiS. This process-based model was originally developed to simulate aeolian sediment transport in supply-limited conditions, such as coastal areas. The study describes simulations of several academic dune formations to validate the applicability of the different (new) processes that were included in the numerical model. Finally, all processes are combined in simulations of a practical case that is used to compare numerical model results to field data on the development of multiple artificially initiated blowout features in the Dutch coast at Meijendel.