Formulation and Quantification of the Distributed Collinear Triad Approximation

As waves enter the surf-zone, the wave spectra undergo drastic transformations because of depth-induced breaking and triad interactions. Any arbitrary spectrum will converge towards a smooth, universal shape in which initially higher harmonic peaks emerge that disappear as wave propagate further into the surf-zone. The current formulation of...

Wave-Driven Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone

Recent study has shown that 3D computations of the morphological development of a coast shows irregularities compared with the 2DH (depth-averaged) computations. Therefore a validation of the surf zone currents computed using the 2DH (depth-averaged) and 3D approach in Delft3D is made. The 2DH and 3D approach are compared using an idealized case...

Transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone

One of the most applied models for wave prediction is the spectral wave model SWAN. SWAN is not always capable of predicting wave conditions in the surf zone with sufficient accuracy. In this study the transformation of wave spectra across the surf zone and its spectral modelling was investigated. The objective of this thesis work was to improve...

The influence of breaking waves on the vertical velocity distribution in the surf zone

In this report we describe the development and calibration of a model which predicts the vertical distribution of the horizontal velocities induced by waves, the so-called undertow. Location of interest is the nearshore region where the flow is induced by both breaking and non-breaking waves. The model consists out of three modules. The first...