A machine learning architecture for including wave breaking in envelope-type wave models

Wave breaking is a complex physical process about which open questions remain. For some applications, it is critical to include breaking effects in phase-resolved envelope-based wave models such as the non-linear Schrödinger. A promising approach is to use machine learning to capture breaking effects. In the present paper we develop the...

An experimental study on added resistance focused on the effects of bow wave breaking and relative wave measurements

The added resistance is a resistance component that is not yet satisfactorily predicted, although its accurate estimation is crucial-both from an environmental and economic point of view-from the design stage of a ship until its operation. One of the possible sources of overprediction is the occurrence of bow wave breaking. The first aim of...

The effects of smoothing length on the onset of wave breaking in smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of highly directionally spread waves

Ocean wave breaking is a difficult-to-model oceanographic process, which has implications for extreme wave statistics, the dissipation of wave energy, and air–sea interaction. Numerical methods capable of reliably simulating real-world directionally spread breaking waves are useful for investigating the physics of wave breaking and for the...

Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics simulations of reef surf zone processes driven by plunging irregular waves

As waves interact with the slopes of coral reefs and other steep bathymetry profiles, plunging breaking usually occurs where the free surface overturns and violent water motion is triggered. Resolving these surf zone processes pose significant challenges for conventional mesh-based hydrodynamic models, due to the rapidly-deforming nature of...

Highly directionally spread, overturning breaking waves modelled with Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics: A case study involving the Draupner wave

Wave breaking in the ocean affects the height of extreme waves, energy dissipation, and interaction between the atmosphere and upper ocean. Numerical modelling is a critical step in understanding the physics of wave breaking and offers insight that is hard to gain from field data or experiments. High-fidelity numerical modelling of three...

Harmonic-induced wave breaking due to abrupt depth transitions: An experimental and numerical study

Abrupt depth transitions (ADTs) have been shown to induce the release of bound waves into free waves, which results in spatially inhomogeneous wave fields atop ADTs. Herein, we examine the role of free-wave release in the generation and spatial distribution of higher-harmonic wave components and in the onset of wave breaking for very steep...

Improving predictions of nearshore wave dynamics and coastal impacts using Smooth Particle Hydrodynamic models

In this study we assess the capabilities of the mesh-free, Lagrangian particle method (Smooth Particle Hydrodynamics, SPH) method to simulate the detailed hydrodynamic processes generated by both spilling and plunging breaking waves within the surf zone, and present how the approach can be used to predict a broad spectrum of hydrodynamic...

Efficient non-hydrostatic modelling of 3D wave-induced currents using a subgrid approach

Wave-induced currents are an ubiquitous feature in coastal waters that can spread material over the surf zone and the inner shelf. These currents are typically under resolved in non-hydrostatic wave-flow models due to computational constraints. Specifically, the low vertical resolutions adequate to describe the wave dynamics – and required to...