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Athanasiou, Panagiotis (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), Giardino, Alessio (author), Vousdoukas, Michalis (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author)
Sandy beaches and dune systems have high recreational and ecological value, and they offer protection against flooding during storms. At the same time, these systems are very vulnerable to storm impacts. Process-based numerical models are presently used to assess the morphological changes of dune and beach systems during storms. However, such...
journal article 2022
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Athanasiou, Panagiotis (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), Giardino, Alessio (author), Vousdoukas, Michalis (author), Antolínez, José A. Á. (author), Ranasinghe, Roshanka (author)
Dune erosion driven by extreme marine storms can damage local infrastructure or ecosystems and affect the long-term flood safety of the hinterland. These storms typically affect long stretches (∼100 km) of sandy coastlines with variable topo-bathymetries. The large spatial scale makes it computationally challenging for process-based...
journal article 2021
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Parodi, Matteo U. (author), Giardino, Alessio (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), Pearson, S.G. (author), Bricker, J.D. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Considering the likely increase in coastal flooding in small island developing states (SIDSs) due to climate change, coastal managers at the local and global levels have been developing initiatives aimed at implementing disaster risk reduction (DRR) and adaptation measures. Developing science-based adaptation policies requires accurate...
journal article 2020
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Lashley, Christopher H. (author), Roelvink, D. (author), Van Dongeren, Ap R. (author), Buckley, Mark (author), Lowe, Ryan J. (author)
The accurate prediction of extreme wave run-up is important for effective coastal engineering design and coastal hazard management. While run-up processes on open sandy coasts have been reasonably well-studied, very few studies have focused on understanding and predicting wave run-up at coral reef-fronted coastlines. This paper applies the short...
journal article 2018
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Van Rooijen, A.A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Reniers, A.J.H.M. (author)
Over the past decades the effect of vegetation (e.g. kelp, mangroves, sea grass) on nearshore coastal processes has received more and more attention. In recent years several numerical wave models have been extended to include this effect. In the current study, the numerical storm impact model XBeach was extended with formulations found in...
conference paper 2015
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Bodde, W.P. (author), Pomeroy, A.W.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Lowe, R. (author), van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
Coral reefs are highly valuable ecosystems, which are under an increasing number of environmental pressures. Sedimentation and sediment transport patterns are among key physical drivers of coral reefs, so it is important to improve our understanding of these poorly studied dynamics on reefs. To this purpose, flume experiments were performed on a...
conference paper 2014
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Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Ormondt, M. (author), Sembiring, L. (author), Sasso, R. (author), Austin, M. (author), Briere, C. (author), Swinkels, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)
This paper describes the development of a physics-based rip current prediction system called CoSMoS. This system consists of a hydrodynamic prediction system which is composed of a train of surge and wave models from the global scale to the scale of a beach resort (order kilometers). For the beach resort scale model, it is of utmost importance...
conference paper 2013
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Pomeroy, A.W.M. (author), Lowe, R.J. (author), Bowyer, C. (author), Zhang, Z. (author), Falter, J. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Roelvink, D. (author)
conference paper 2013
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Van der Westhuysen, A.J. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), Groeneweg, J. (author), Van Vledder, G.P. (author), Peters, H. (author), Gautier, C. (author), Van Nieuwkoop, J.C.C. (author)
The performance of the spectral wind wave model SWAN in tidal inlet seas was assessed on the basis of extensive wave measurements conducted in the Amelander Zeegat tidal inlet and the Dutch Eastern Wadden Sea, as well as relevant data from other inlets, lakes, estuaries and beaches. We found that the 2006 default SWAN model (version 40.51), the...
journal article 2012
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Pomeroy, A. (author), Lowe, R. (author), Symonds, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Moore, C. (author)
A 3 week field study was conducted to investigate the dynamics of low-frequency (infragravity) wave motions over a fringing reef at Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia. Short-period wave motions (0.04–0.2 Hz) were observed to dissipate on the reef crest beyond which infragravity wave motions (0.004–0.04 Hz) gradually dominated toward the lagoon....
journal article 2012
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Haerens, P. (author), Ciavola, P. (author), Ferreira, O. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Koningsveld, M. (author), Bolle, A. (author)
Extreme coastal storms have a destructive impact on coastal areas and directly affect people living in the coastal zone, being this emphasized by recent events (e.g. Katrina, Xynthia) which reminded the world of the vulnerability of coastal areas. The economic constraints and the increasing vulnerability of coastal areas (due to sea level rise...
conference paper 2012
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Winter, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Van Thiele de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the knowledge...
conference paper 2012
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Van Santen, R.B. (author), Steetzel, H.J. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author)
Regular dune safety assessments in the Netherlands are presently based on a 1D model approach, which is insufficiently applicable for more complex coastal areas with structures, tidal channels or spatially strong varying bathymetry. These situations require more advanced methods to assess the safety in dune areas. In this study a 2DH XBeach...
conference paper 2012
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Van Geer, P. (author), De Vries, S. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author)
This paper describes the validation of the dune erosion model XBeach with laboratory measurement data of dune erosion in the presence of sea walls and revetments. Simulation results show that the essential dune set back processes are captured by the model and that the measurements at most locations are approximated quite well. Some aspects...
conference paper 2012
document
Winter, G. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), De Schipper, M.A. (author), Van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)
conference paper 2012
document
Winter, Gundula (author), Van Dongeren, Ap (author), de Schipper, M.A. (author), van Thiel De Vries, J.S.M. (author)
Rip currents are wave-induced and off-shore directed flows which occur frequently in the surf zone and can pose a serious threat to swimmers. While the behaviour of rip currents has been studied in swell-dominated environments, less is known about their characteristics in wind-sea dominated environments. This study aims to improve the...
conference paper 2012
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Baart, F. (author), Bakker, M.A.J. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Den Heijer, C. (author), Van Heteren, S. (author), Smit, M.W.J. (author), Van Koningsveld, M. (author), Pool, A. (author)
For the design of cost-effective coastal defence a precise estimate is needed of the 1/10 000 per year storm surge. A more precise estimate requires more observations. Therefore, the three greatest storm surges that hit the northern part of the Holland Coast in the 18th century are reconstructed. The reconstructions are based on paintings,...
journal article 2011
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Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), Van Dongeren, A.R. (author), McCall, R. (author), Reniers, A. (author)
The effect of the longshore dimension on dune erosion is examined numerically with a 2DH process based model XBeach. Exploratory simulations are presented to examine longshore effects due to directionally spread waves, longshore variation in topography and longshore variation in bathymetry. The simulations reveal that alongshore sediment...
conference paper 2011
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Van der Westhuysen, A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Nieuwkoop, J. (author), Groeneweg, J. (author), Eslami Arab, S. (author)
Over the last five years a research program has been carried out to assess the performance of the spectral wave model SWAN in the Wadden Sea so that it may be used for the transformation of offshore wave conditions to wave boundary conditions near the sea defenses (dikes and dunes). The assessment was done on the basis of extensive wave...
report 2011
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Daly, C. (author), Roelvink, J.A. (author), Van Dongeren, A. (author), Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M. (author), McCall, R.T. (author)
The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...
conference paper 2010
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