Wave Breaking Induced by Opposing Currents in Submerged Vegetation Canopies

Wave height attenuation in vegetation canopies is often all attributed to the drag force exerted by vegetation, whereas other potential dissipation process is often neglected. Previous studies without vegetation have found that opposing currents can induce wave breaking and greatly increase dissipation. It is not clear if similar process may...

Response of large-scale coastal basins to wind forcing: Influence of topography

Because wind is one of the main forcings in storm surge, we present an idealised process-based model to study the influence of topographic variations on the frequency response of large-scale coastal basins subject to time-periodic wind forcing. Coastal basins are represented by a semi-enclosed rectangular inner region forced by wind. It is...

Predicting long-term and short-term tidal flat morphodynamics using a dynamic equilibrium theory

Dynamic equilibrium theory is a fruitful concept, which we use to systematically explain the tidal flat morphodynamic response to tidal currents, wind waves, sediment supply, and other sedimentological drivers. This theory stems from a simple analytical model that derives the tide- or wave-dominated tidal flat morphology by assuming that...

Importance of cross-channel bathymetry and eddy viscosity parameterisation in modelling estuarine flow

For a proper understanding of flow patterns in curved tidal channels, quantification of contributions from individual physical mechanisms is essential. We study quantitatively how such contributions are affected by crosschannel bathymetry and three alternative eddy viscosity parameterisations. Two models are presented for this purpose, both...