On the initiation of nearshore morphological rhythmicity

Nearshore rhythmicity is often initiated in the period just after a storm where the subtidal bar is turned alongshore uniform. The initiation time as well as the length scales of the created rhythmicity varies from one storm period to another. Here we show that the post-storm wave conditions are related to the initiation of the morphological...

What determines nearshore sandbar response?

Nearshore sandbars appear with various patterns which may change over time. From observations, these changes seem to be related to changes in hydrodynamic conditions, although observed length scales could not be related directly to occurring wave conditions. The current work investigated the role of both the concurrent and previous hydrodynamics...

Wave boundary layer hydrodynamics during onshore bar migration

To study onshore bar migration and the accompanying intra-wave sediment transport a wave flume experiment was conducted. The wave flume had a rigid bottom with a single bar profile. The focus of the experiment was to measure the hydrodynamics in the wave bottom boundary layer. The results show that the skewness of bottom stress is not only...

Surfing waves generated by a hull

In this paper a new wave pool concept is presented using ship hulls as wave generators. To evaluate the potential of such a concept a towing tank experiment is conducted to investigate ship wave generation in a confined space. In the towing tank experiment various hull sizes and velocities are examined to maximize the generated wave height. The...

On the scaling of sediment transport in the nearshore

Scale relations are necessary to choose proper sediment for physical models. The use of lightweight artificial sediment makes it possible to preserve the Reynolds number, Shields number and relative settling velocity altogether. There is also the possibility to preserve the Shields number in combination with the Dean number which would be more...

Evalution of a model for estimating infragravity waves in shallo water-Accuracy and suitability for long-term climatologies

Reducing uncertainty in prediction of dune erosion during extreme conditions

Coastal dunes protect low lying coastal areas against the sea. Extreme waves and water levels during severe storms may cause breaching of the dunes. Consequently, serious damage due to flooding and direct wave attack could occur, resulting in loss of life and property. Proper coastal management implies that reinforcement measures will be taken...

Motion threshold of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves

Threshold of motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is studied. Experiments were performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were created...

Coarse particles' threshold of motion under shoaling waves

The threshold of motion of coarse particles under regular shoaling waves is studied. Experiments are performed to investigate the effects of bed fluid acceleration on coarse particle stability. By varying wave height, wave period and water depth, combinations of similar peak orbital velocities and weak to strong intra-wave accelerations were...