Golfhoogte-overschrijdingskromme in Deltagoot en Scheldegoot

In Klein Breteler (2007) staat dat bij sommige proeven de golfhoogteoverschrijdingskromme van de inkomende golven niet correct lijkt. De golfhoogteoverschrijdingskromme laat een overmaat (Scheldegoot) of tekort (Deltagoot) aan zeer hoge inkomende golven zien. In het huidige document is gekeken naar beide situaties: proef P25 in de Deltagoot, en...

Wave action on rubble mound breakwaters: The problem of scale effects

The present report, produced within the framework of the EU funded project DELOS, attempts to recognise and analyse main scale effects in the physical modeHing of rubble mound breakwaters used in offshore and coastal engineering. Scale effects appear in physical modeHing because the ratios between the farces of interest, as present in prototype,...

Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Laboratory wave generation: A second-order theory for regular and irregular waves in wave channels

The correct generation of a second order wave field in a laboratory wave tank is of importance in several experimental investigations, particularly those of nonlinear evolutions and sediment transport. In the present work, which was carried out under the MLTP (medium long-term planning) of DELFT HYDRAULICS for improving experimental techniques,...

Active Directional Wave Absorption Theory

Panel segment type wave-makers are being used to realize multi-directional irregular waves in laboratory wave basins. In order to reproduce the real sea condition, the wave-maker should generate the incident waves, at the same time absorb reflected waves from model structures. The present study was conducted to give a multi-directional wave...

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the...

Future needs for hydraulic and soil mechanic research in coastal and offshore engineering

Inauguration of the large wave flume - Address by the Minister of Transport and Public Works - Closing address by J. J. Vinjé, Head of the Hydraulics Laboratory DeVoorst - Data concerning the large wave flume Symposium 'Future needs for hydraulic and soil mechanic research in coastal and offshore engineering - Opening speech by J.G.H.R. Diephuis...

Aangroeiing op een Thomson meetschot: Bepaling van de meetfouten

The Measurement of Incident and Reflected Spectra Using a Least squares Method

A least squares method to separate the incident and reflected spectra from the measured co-existing spectra is presented. This method requires a simultaneous measurement of the waves at three positions in the flume which are in reasonable proximity to each other and are on a line parallel to the direction of wave propagation. Experimental...

On the synthesis of realistic Sea States in a laboratory flume

Background report on how to make realistic waves in laboratory flumes, including the method of splitting wave signals into incoming and reflecting waves

Deltagoot: Inventarisatie van mogelijk onderzoek

Pressures in Sand from Waves and Caisson Motion

In The Netherlands recurring floods have occurred in the southwestern part of the country from infrequent large storm surge from the ocean. The Delta plan was originated to increase the safety against flooding. This resulted in shortening of the coastline by closure of various estuaries, including the Eastern Scheldt estuary. A closure of the...

Enige aantekeningen met betrekking tot het opwekken van regelmatige golven in een golfgoot

Vooronderzoek getijgoot: Onderzoek mengmiddelen

Scale Selection for Wave Models

The selection of scales for models with short waves, long waves and unindirectional current is discussed with particular emphasis on boundary layer motion and movement of sediment. The paper attempts to outline the present state of the art and to provide a framework for future research in the area of coastal sediment transport models at Queen's...