Validation of the wave prediction model SWAN using field data from Lake George, Australia

In this thesis, the wave prediction model SWAN is validated on field data obtained from wave growth experiments that were done in Lake George, a shallow lake in Australia. SWAN, which is an acronym for Simulation of WAves in Nearshore areas, is a numerical model, developed at the University of Technology in Delft, to obtain estimates of wave...

Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced particle velocities

In this thesis, the modelling of the horizontal velocity field under waves using Boussinesqtype models is studied. Special attention is paid to the prediction of bottom velocities in view of sediment-transport formulations. Boussinesq-type models describe the propagation of weakly non-linear shallow-water waves. The depth-dependence of the...

The Response of Waves to Changes in Wind Speed

Detailed studies have been carried out for fetch and duration limited wave growth and fully developed sea state, but much less is known about changing wind conditions. The subject of this study is the response of waves to a change in wind speed. The main point of interest is the rate of response at the different frequencies. Two third generation...

Application of the random storm method to global structural loading on fixed offshore structures

In conventional practice extreme design conditions for offshore structures are obtained very conservatively by extrapolating 3-hourly statistics of wind, wave and current data to a (say) 100 year return level, assuming that the 100-year extremes occur simultaneously and act in the same direction. This study involves an alternative approach...

Application of the random storm method tot the air-gap problem

This is a study of the statistics of the ocean surface. The extreme surface elevation arising from waves, tides and storm surge is calculated by a novel approach that appears to eliminate many of the shortcomings of the convential practice. The proposed method works with the statistics of storms rather than three hour periods. A storm may be...

Verification of a PC model for wave diffraction

BELUGA is a mathematical model which has been developed by Booij, Holthuijsen and Tolman in Delft University of Thechnology, to compute wave penetration into a harbour taking diffraction and reflection into consideration. The aim of the model is to provide an efficient numerical method for calculation of a wave field in a relatively large...

Shallow foreshore wave height statistics

Wave height distributions on shallow foreshores deviate from those in deep water due to the effects of the restricted depth-to-height ratio and of wave breaking. Laboratory data of wave heights on shallow foreshores of different slopes have been analysed to determine these effects and to derive generalised empirical parameterisation. A model...

A comparison of mathematical models for wave propagation in harbours

A wave entering a harbor will be diffracted and reflected, depending on the shape and the construction of breakwaters, quays and other objects in the harbor. The incoming wave can increase or decrease in height and a resonance can occur. This affects the manouvering of ships and the movement of moored ships, which influences the loading and...