Long-term modelling with XBeach: combining stationary and surfbeat mode in an integrated approach

XBeach is a process-based morphological model that has been used for modelling short term behaviour of beaches and dunes. In the past years interest has been shown by researchers and engineers to use XBeach for longer simulation periods (multiple years). XBeach has multiple modules: stationary mode is often used during calm conditions and...

Incipient motion of sand and oil agglomerates: A numerical study on the mobility of particles under wave-induced forcing

After the Deepwater Horizon oil spill in 2010, oil was released into the Gulf of Mexico and partly reached the shorelines. Here, it mixed with sand in the surf zone to form sand and oil agglomerates (SOAs). These cm-sized particles are heavier than water and are therefore found on the seabed. Years after the initial formation of these particles,...

Modeling the contribution of infragravity and incident band swash on wave run-up on East coast South-Korean beaches

The maximum wave run-up on a beach is an important factor in the design of coastal protection measures. Therefore, it is desired to predict this run-up based on numerical models. In this thesis, this is done with the use of the model XBeach. Wave run-up consists of multiple components: a swash height, S, and a wave set-up, <η>. The swash height...

Infra-gravity wave transformation across macro-tidal rocky shore platforms.

This thesis investigates the governing generating mechanisms, shoaling and reflection behaviour of infra-gravity waves on a mild-sloping, macro-tidal, rocky shore platform. The methods comprise among others, field data analysis of the Lilstock platform, numerical modelling using a calibrated XBeach model and a cross-correlation analysis to...

Opening and closure of intermittently open natural inlets

Tidal inlet systems are found all over the world. These highly dynamic coastal features can be classified into three main types wave-dominated, tide-dominated or river-dominated tidal inlet systems. A tidal inlet is described as an opening in the shoreline that provides a connection between the ocean and a bay and is maintained by tidal currents...

Modelling sediment transport and morphology during overwash and breaching events

Currently, morphodynamic models as XBeach show substantial overestimations of the erosion rates during breaching and overwash events at barrier islands. The presently used limitations on the Shields parameter and the sediment concentration do hinder erosion, but have undesirable side effects, e.g. the breaching process is suppressed. By...

Modelling Sediment Transport in the Swash Zone

The swash zone is the part of the beach that reaches from the limit of wave run-up until the limit of wave run-down. It is recognized as being a dynamic area of the nearshore region, characterized by strong and unsteady flows, high turbulence levels, large sediment transport rates and morphological changes on a small timescale. Due to the...

Low Frequency Waves in the Shoaling and Nearshore Zone

It has been found by many researchers that low frequency (LF) waves dominate the wave energy spectrum in very shallow water. Given that many longshore and cross-shore morphological processes are located within this zone, LF waves play an important role in determining morphological change, especially dune erosion and overwash during storm events....