Morphological analysis of the beach at the Brouwersdam

This thesis focusses on the north-eastward shifting beach at Brouwersdam, which poses a problem for users and stakeholders of the beach. This trend is likely to continue in the foreseeable future and could result in a beach that can no longer fulfil its current functions, like recreation and tourism. Analysis of bathymetric data from the last...

Influence of wave climate schematisation on the simulated morphological development of the Western Scheldt entrance

In the entrance of the estuary of the Western Scheldt (defined as the area between Vlissingen and Terneuzen), wave conditions are dominated by local wind conditions rather than by wave conditions at the North Sea. This is caused by the presence of the ebb tidal delta in front of the entrance. Waves influence the simulated morphology by eroding...

The cause of coastal erosion on a nourished beach in Kololi, The Gambia

The erosion problem at the Senegambia area (The Gambia) is the subject of this thesis. The Senegambia area is the largest Tourism developed area which contributes significantly to the economy of The Gambia. In November 2003 Royal Haskoning has constructed a beach nourishment of 1,000,000 m3 as an erosion buffer with a lifetime of 10 to 15 years....

Wave-Driven Longshore Currents in the Surf Zone

Recent study has shown that 3D computations of the morphological development of a coast shows irregularities compared with the 2DH (depth-averaged) computations. Therefore a validation of the surf zone currents computed using the 2DH (depth-averaged) and 3D approach in Delft3D is made. The 2DH and 3D approach are compared using an idealized case...

On the generation of surfable ship waves in a circular pool: Part I: physical background & wave pool design

Surfing as a sport is growing. Locations with good surfing conditions are limited and therefore crowded. The growing interest for the sport led to a new concept, surf pools. Surf pools mimic good surfing conditions found along the coast. This thesis is about the technical feasibility of a new surf pool concept, creating surfing waves in a...

On the generation of surfable ship waves, Part II: The application of stereo photo technique measuring water surface elevation and surface flow velocities

Wave pools are designed to mimic surfing conditions as they exist along coasts. The Liquid Time Wave Pool concept, invented by Greg Webber, suggests a new method for wave generation. Waves are generated by a hull which moves in a channel. These "ship waves" break on a slope creating surf. Key feature of the concept is to make ship waves surfable...

Boussinesq modelling of wave-induced particle velocities

In this thesis, the modelling of the horizontal velocity field under waves using Boussinesqtype models is studied. Special attention is paid to the prediction of bottom velocities in view of sediment-transport formulations. Boussinesq-type models describe the propagation of weakly non-linear shallow-water waves. The depth-dependence of the...