Wave height from pressure measurements

For this project, Environment Mapping & Surveying (EMS) from South Africa has provided two pressure meters for wave measuring. These pressure meters give a value for the pressure, which must be converted to pressure and after that to a Rayleigh distribution and a wave spectrum. Therefore is the purpose of this report to test the pressure meter...

Comparison of sea wave measurements using HF Radar and numerical model (IllSW A) hindcast

The study of waves and current, especially in the nearshore region is of particular importance for nearshore or coastal works. During the last decades, the formulations to describe the wave propagation as the waves move towards the shore has advanced very much. Many operational models for the hindeast and forecast of waves have been developed....