When Do JONSWAP Spectra Lead to Soliton Gases in Deep Water Conditions?

When a large number of solitons dominates the dynamics of a system, scientists describe this collective behaviour of solitons as a soliton gas. Soliton gases are currently the subject of intense practical and theoretical investigations. The existence of soliton gases has been confirmed in experiments, but is not clear what kind of sea states...

Water-depth identification from free-surface data using the KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform

We propose a novel method to determine the average water depth from shallow, weakly nonlinear water waves that are approximated by the Korteweg-de Vries equation. Our identification method only requires free-surface measurements from two wave gauges aligned in the direction of wave propagation. The method we propose is based on comparing...

Comparative analysis of bore propagation over long distances using conventional linear and KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform

In this paper, we study the propagation of bores over a long distance. We employ experimental data as input for numerical simulations using COULWAVE. The experimental flume is extended numerically to an effective relative length of x/h=3000, which allows all far-field solitons to emerge from the undular bore in the simulation data. We apply the...

Analysis of Bore Characteristics Using KdV-Based Nonlinear Fourier Transform

Bores propagating in shallow water transform into undular bores and, finally, into trains of solitons. The observed number and height of these undulations, and later discrete solitons, is strongly dependent on the propagation length of the bore. Empirical results show that the final height of the leading soliton in the far-field is twice the...