Unravelling sediment transport driven by a multimodal wind-wave spectrum

This thesis analyses the importance and application of considering multiple coexisting wave trains in sediment transport predictions.<br/><br/>The wave trains at offshore and nearshore locations are analyzed by wave spectral partitions (Portilla at el., 2009). The temporal variability of consistently occurring wave trains can be analyzed through...

Wave directionality and extreme wave loading

For an accurate description of the wave loading on an offshore structure, detailed knowledge of the wave-induced kinematics is a precondition. To fully describe the ocean environment is, however, a complex problem. First of all because of the fact that wave action is a random process. The second complication is wave directionality. With wave...

Averaged two-dimensional low-frequency wave spectrum of wind waves

This report deals with second order, two-dimensional low frequency waves induced by the non-linear interactions of the first order component waves in a two-dimensional short wave field. The convolution to calculate the averaged two-dimensional low frequency wave spectrum is developed. Any given two-dimensional short wave spectrum can be used as...