Short wave breaking effects on low frequency waves

The effect of short wave breaking on low frequency waves is investigated using two breaker formulations implemented in a time-dependent numerical model (XBeach): (1) an advective-deterministic approach (ADA) and (2) the probabilistic breaker formulation of Roelvink (1993). Previous research has shown that the ADA breaker model gives different...

Low Frequency Waves in the Shoaling and Nearshore Zone

It has been found by many researchers that low frequency (LF) waves dominate the wave energy spectrum in very shallow water. Given that many longshore and cross-shore morphological processes are located within this zone, LF waves play an important role in determining morphological change, especially dune erosion and overwash during storm events....