Modelling Vertical Variation of Turbulent Flow Across a Surf Zone Using SWASH

This paper presents the application of the open source non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH to propagation of irregular waves in a barred surf zone, and the model results are discussed by comparing against an extensive laboratory data set. This study focus not only on wave transformation in the surf zone, but also on the numerical prediction of...

Verification of the shearstress boundary conditions in the undertow problem

As part of a revision of the quasi-3D approach for coastal currents, the two-dimensional undertow problem is being restudied. Since the first proposal for approaches in the 1980's progress has been made by several researchers (e.g. Deigaard and Fredsoe, 1989) on the potential importance of contributions neglected initially, such as the time-mean...

Characteristics of Turbulence Structure and Undertow in the Surf Zone

The characteristic motion of water under breaking waves and the turbulence structure in the surf zone were investigated through detailed two-dimensional velocity measurements in a wave flume. Significant difference was found between the breaking processes in the outer and inner regions of the surf zone. The velocity field in each region consists...