On the effect of the heave motion on the run-up flow: The case study of a 2-D rectangular structure

Wave run-up is the vertical water uprush that occurs when an incident wave impacts on a surface-piercing body. This phenomenon is particularly relevant when waves of high steepness interact with large structures as a result of significant nonlinear interactions between incident and diffracted wave fields. The extent can be further amplificated...

Coral Restoration for Coastal Hazard Risk Reduction: The effect of coral restoration on wave transformation over various reef morphologies and the resulting runup

Coral reefs are degrading at an alarming rate, affecting not only the precarious coral ecosystem but also human habitat. The combination of coral degradation, sea level rise and its exacerbated effect in the tropics, and the possible storm intensification increases the flood vulnerability of low-lying tropical islands. To protect reef fronted...

The effect of wave directional spread on coastal hazards at coastlines fronted by a coral reef

Many coastlines fronted by a coral reef are threatened by wave driven flooding. For this reason, waves in coral reef environments has been topic of many studies. However, most are focused on a 1D simplification of the coral reef environment. These studies neglect the impact of 2D processes, for example wave directional spread. In this study an...

Using flotsam lines for improving predictions of hydraulic loads on coastal dikes

Flotsam lines may arise on coastal dikes after a storm surge. These lines are generated when material due to debris accumulation on the foreshore has been transported onto the dike surface by wave run-up. Hydraulic engineers who used flotsam line measurements, interpreted a flotsam line as a line which is marking the highest wave run-up. In the...

Undular bore development over coral reefs: An experimental study

A series of laboratory experiments were designed for a schematized 1/20 fringing reef. Both regular and bichromatic wave experiments were carried out. The focus lies on the regular waves experiments. Six regular wave experiments were carried out. During the first two experiemnts, cnoidal waves were generated with typical swell scales, while the...

Modelling the effects of excavation pits on fringing reefs

Many small island developing states (SIDS) are among the most vulnerable to climate change (e.g. sea level rise) and seasonal to inter-annual climate variability, and subsequently experience flooding due to swell waves and wind waves, coastal erosion and salinisation of freshwater lenses. To counteract this, reef flat mining for sand and...

Taluds van losgestorte materialen: Golfneerloop op statisch stabiele stortsteen taluds onder golfaanval

In dit verslag worden neerloopmetingen gepresenteerd en geanalyseerd welke zijn verkregen uit onderzoeken naar de statische stabiliteit van stortsteen taluds onder golfaanval. De analyse van deze proeven heeft geleid tot de relatie voor de relatieve neerloop die door 2% van de neerlopen wordt overschreden. Deze empirische relatie wordt...