Simulating Barrier Island Evolution: Coupling Process-Based Models

Barrier islands are important features in the coastal zone, among others because they shelter the mainland from waves and storm surge. Thus, the degradation of barrier islands can pose a threat to coastal safety. Hence, there is a societal demand for understanding and predicting barrier island evolution. High energy events, such as storms and...

Video-based nearshore bathymetry estimation for Rip current forecasting on a macrotidal beach

Rip currents are seaward directed flows of water that traverse the surf zone, and in many cases pose potentially dangerous conditions for swimmers and beach users. The present study is carried out focusing on Perranporth beach, UK, which is known to present quite strong rip current events that have been the culprits of large numbers of incidents...

Rip Current Characteristics at the Dutch Coast: Egmond aan Zee

Rip currents are narrow, seaward directed flows in the surf zone that can pose a serious threat to swimmers. This issue has received attention particularly on swell dominated coasts (such as the US, Australia, France and UK) where numerous field experiments have been undertaken. However, the threat of rip currents is less recognised on wind-sea...