Surf-Zone Hydrodynamics

Review paper on the recent progress in the field of wave modelling in the surf zone. The authors have the following concluding remarks (taken directly from the rapport): Wave breaking provides the forcing for larger scale motions in the surf zone. It is therefore probably both somewhat ironic as well as unfortunate that at the present time there...

Wave Heights and Set-up in a Surf Zone

A theoretical model is developed for wave heights and set-up in a surf zone. In the time averaged equations of energy and momentum the energy flux, radiation stress and energy dissipation are determined by simple approximations which include the surface roller in the breaker. Comparison with measurements shows good agreement. Also the...