Nearshore sediment movement - Central California coast

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Abstract

An 80- mile reach of the central California coast, extending from the mouth of the Russian River in the north to Half Moon Bay in the south, was studied for the characteristics of sediment movement in the nearshore zone. From the results of a large number of beach and offshore sediment samples and other information, several techniques were utilized in appraising the nature of sediment movement along the reach of the coastline under study. These techniques included: (a) the physical nature of the coastline from a consideration of the prevailing wave energy, (b) the distribution of light and heavy minerals and their sources, (c) the use of certain naturally radioactive minerals and their use as a tracer, and (d) the sedimentation experience at harbors where both natural and stabilized entrances exist.